the guide-books say “low scarce-swelling hills that softly gird the old town;” and these keep off the winds and make the riverine valley, with its swamped meads and water-meadows, more fenny and feverish even than Cambridge.  The heights and woods bring on a mild deluge between October 1st and May 1st; the climate is rainy as that of Shap in Westmoreland (our old home) and, as at Fernando Po and Singapore, the rain it raineth more or less every day during one half of the year.  The place was chosen by the ancient Britons for facility of water transport, but men no longer travel by the Thames and they have naturally neglected the older road.  Throughout England, indeed a great national work remains to be done.  Not a river, not a rivulet, but what requires cleaning out and systematic excavation by elevateurs and other appliances of the Suez Canal.  The channels filled up by alluvium and choked by the American weed, are now raised so high that the beds can no longer act as drains:  at Oxford for instance the beautiful meadows of Christ Church are little better than swamps and marshes, the fittest homes for Tergiana, Ouartana and all the fell sisterhood:  a blue fog broods over the pleasant site almost every evening, and a thrust with the umbrella opens up water.  This is the more inexcusable as the remedy would be easy and by no means costly:  the river-mud, if the ignorant peasants only knew the fact, forms the best of manures; and this, instead of being deposited in spoil-heaps on the banks for the rain to wash back at the first opportunity, should be carried by tram-rails temporarily laid down and be spread over the distant fields, thus almost paying for the dredge works.  Of course difficulties will arise:  the management of the Thames is under various local “Boards,” and each wooden head is able and aye ready to show its independence and ill temper at the sacrifice of public interests to private fads.

Hence the climate of Oxford is detestable.  Strong undergraduates cannot withstand its nervous depression and the sleeplessness arising from damp air charged with marsh gases and bacteria.  All students take time to become acclimatized here, and some are never acclimatized at all.  And no wonder, when the place is drained by a fetid sewer of greenish yellow hue containing per 10,000, 245 parts of sewage.  The only tolerable portion of the year is the Long Vacation, when the youths in mortar-boards all vanish from the view, while many of the oldsters congregate in the reformed convents called Colleges.

Climate and the resolute neglect of sanitation are probably the chief causes why Oxford never yet produced a world-famous and epoch-making man, while Cambridge can boast of Newton and Darwin.  The harlequin city of domes and spires, cribs and slums shows that curious concurrence of opposites so common in England.  The boasted High Street is emblematical of the place, where moral as well as material extremes meet and are fain to dwell side by side.  It is a fine