Further along in the same letter there breaks forth a true heart-answer to that voice of the Alps which, once heard, is never wholly silent: 

O Switzerland!  The further it recedes into the enriching haze of time, the more intolerably delicious the charm of it and the cheer of it and the glory and majesty, and solemnity and pathos of it grow.  Those mountains had a soul:  they thought, they spoke.  And what a voice it was!  And how real!  Deep down in my memory it is sounding yet.  Alp calleth unto Alp!  That stately old Scriptural wording is the right one for God’s Alps and God’s ocean.  How puny we were in that awful Presence, and how painless it was to be so!  How fitting and right it seemed, and how stingless was the sense of our unspeakable insignificance!  And Lord, how pervading were the repose and peace and blessedness that poured out of the heart of the invisible Great Spirit of the mountains!

Now what is it?  There are mountains and mountains and mountains in this world, but only these take you by the heartstrings.  I wonder what the secret of it is.  Well, time and time and again it has seemed to me that I must drop everything and flee to Switzerland once more.  It is a longings deep, strong, tugging longing.  That is the word.  We must go again, Joe.

CXX

IN MUNICH

That winter in Munich was not recalled as an unpleasant one in after-years.  His work went well enough—­always a chief source of gratification.  Mrs. Clemens and Miss Spaulding found interest in the galleries, in quaint shops, in the music and picturesque life of that beautiful old Bavarian town.  The children also liked Munich.  It was easy for them to adopt any new environment or custom.  The German Christmas, with its lavish tree and toys and cakes, was an especial delight.  The German language they seemed fairly to absorb.  Writing to his mother Clemens said: 

I cannot see but that the children speak German as well as they do English.  Susy often translates Livy’s orders to the servants.  I cannot work and study German at the same time; so I have dropped the latter and do not even read the language, except in the morning paper to get the news.

In Munich—­as was the case wherever they were known—­there were many callers.  Most Americans and many foreigners felt it proper to call on Mark Twain.  It was complimentary, but it was wearying sometimes.  Mrs. Clemens, in a letter written from Venice, where they had received even more than usual attention, declared there were moments when she almost wished she might never see a visitor again.

Originally there was a good deal about Munich in the new book, and some of the discarded chapters might have been retained with advantage.  They were ruled out in the final weeding as being too serious, along with the French chapters.  Only a few Italian memories were left to follow the Switzerland wanderings.