Chapter LI. 
Benares a Religious Temple—­A Guide for Pilgrims to Save Time in Securing
Salvation

Chapter LII.  A Curious Way to Secure Salvation—­The Banks of the Ganges—­Architecture Represents Piety—­A Trip on the River—­Bathers and their Costumes —­Drinking the Water—­A Scientific Test of the Nasty Purifier—­Hindoo Faith in the Ganges—­A Cremation—­Remembrances of the Suttee—­All Life Sacred Except Human Life—­The Goddess Bhowanee, and the Sacrificers—­Sacred Monkeys—­Ugly Idols Everywhere—­Two White Minarets—­A Great View with a Monkey in it—­A Picture on the Water

Chapter LIII. 
Still in Benares—­Another Living God—­Why Things are Wonderful—­Sri 108
Utterly Perfect—­How He Came so—­Our Visit to Sri—­A Friendly Deity
Exchanging Autographs and Books—­Sri’s Pupil—­An Interesting Man
—­Reverence and Irreverence—­Dancing in a Sepulchre

Chapter LIV. 
Rail to Calcutta—­Population—­The “City of Palaces”—­A Fluted
Candle-stick—­Ochterlony—­Newspaper Correspondence—­Average Knowledge of
Countries—­A Wrong Idea of Chicago—­Calcutta and the Black Hole
—­Description of the Horrors—­Those Who Lived—­The Botanical Gardens—­The
Afternoon Turnout—­Grand Review—­Military Tournament—­Excursion on the
Hoogly—­The Museum—­What Winter Means Calcutta

Chapter LV On the Road Again—­Flannels in Order—­Across Country—­From Greenland’s Icy Mountain—­Swapping Civilization—­No Field women in India—­How it is in Other Countries—­Canvas-covered Cars—­The Tiger Country—­My First Hunt Some Elephants Get Away—­The Plains of India—­The Ghurkas—­Women for Pack-Horses—­A Substitute for a Cab—­Darjeeling—­The Hotel—­The Highest Thing in the Himalayas—­The Club—­Kinchinjunga and Mt.  Everest —­Thibetans—­The Prayer Wheel—­People Going to the Bazar

Chapter LVI. 
On the Road Again—­The Hand-Car—­A Thirty-five-mile Slide—­The Banyan
Tree—­A Dramatic Performance—­The Railroad—­The Half-way House—­The Brain
Fever Bird—­The Coppersmith Bird—­Nightingales and Cue Owls

Chapter LVII.  India the Most Extraordinary Country on Earth—­Nothing Forgotten—­The Land of Wonders—­Annual Statistics Everywhere about Violence—­Tiger vs.  Man—­A Handsome Fight—­Annual Man Killing and Tiger Killing—­Other Animals—­Snakes—­Insurance and Snake Tables—­The Cobra Bite—­Muzaffurpore —­Dinapore—­A Train that Stopped for Gossip—­Six Hours for Thirty-five Miles—­A Rupee to the Engineer—­Ninety Miles an Hour—­Again to Benares, the Piety Hive To Lucknow

Chapter LVIII. 
The Great Mutiny—­The Massacre in Cawnpore—­Terrible Scenes in Lucknow
—­The Residency—­The Siege

Chapter LIX. 
A Visit to the Residency—­Cawnpore—­The Adjutant Bird and the Hindoo
Corpse—­The Tai Mahal—­The True Conception—­The Ice Storm—­True Gems
—­Syrian Fountains—­An Exaggerated Niagara