the seven hundred abbés-commendatory, are all men
of the world; they behave well, are rich, and are not
austere, while their episcopal palace or abbey is
for them a country-house, which they repair or embellish
with a view to the time they pass in it, and to the
company they welcome to it.[72] At Clairvaux, Dom
Rocourt, very affable with men and still more gallant
with the ladies, never drives out except with four
horses, and with a mounted groom ahead; his monks
do him the honors of a Monseigneur, and he maintains
a veritable court. The chartreuse of Val Saint-Pierre
is a sumptuous palace in the center of an immense
domain, and the father-procurator, Dom Effinger, passes
his days in entertaining his guests.[73] At the convent
of Origny, near Saint-Quentin,[74] “the abbess
has her domestics and her carriage and horses, and
receives men on visits, who dine in her apartments.”
The princess Christine, abbess of Remiremont, with
her lady canonesses, are almost always traveling; and
yet “they enjoy themselves in the abbey,”
entertaining there a good many people “in the
private apartments of the princess, and in the strangers’
rooms."[75] The twenty-five noble chapters of women,
and the nineteen noble chapters of men, are as many
permanent drawing-rooms and gathering places incessantly
resorted to by the fine society which a slight ecclesiastical
barrier scarcely divides from the great world from
which it is recruited. At the chapter of Alix,
near Lyons, the canonesses wear hoopskirts into the
choir, “dressed as in the world outside,”
except that their black silk robes and their mantles
are lined with ermine.[76] At the chapter of Ottmarsheim
in Alsace, “our week was passed in promenading,
in visiting the traces of Roman roads, in laughing
a good deal, and even in dancing, for there were many
people visiting the abbey, and especially talking over
dresses.” Near Sarrebuis, the canonesses
of Loutre dine with the officers and are anything
but prudish.[77] Numbers of convents serve as agreeable
and respectable asylums for widowed ladies, for young
women whose husbands are in the army, and for young
ladies of rank, while the superior, generally some
noble damsel, wields, with ease and dexterity, the
scepter of this pretty feminine world. But nowhere
is the pomp of hospitality or the concourse greater,
than in the episcopal palaces. I have described
the situation of the bishops; with their opulence,
possessors of the like feudal rights, heirs and successors
to the ancient sovereigns of the territory, and besides
all this, men of the world and frequenters of Versailles,
why should they not keep a court? A Cicé, archbishop
of Bordeaux, a Dillon, archbishop of Narbonne, a Brienne,
archbishop of Toulouse, a Castellane, bishop of Mende
and seignior-suzerain of the whole of Gévaudan, an
archbishop of Cambrai, duke of Cambray, seignior-suzerain
of the whole of Cambrésis, and president by birth
of the provincial States-General, are nearly all princes
; why not parade themselves like princes? Hence,


