’April 19.  This morning, struck into the region of full goatees—­ sometimes accompanied by a mustache, but only occasionally.’

It was odd to come upon this thick crop of an obsolete and uncomely fashion; it was like running suddenly across a forgotten acquaintance whom you had supposed dead for a generation.  The goatee extends over a wide extent of country; and is accompanied by an iron-clad belief in Adam and the biblical history of creation, which has not suffered from the assaults of the scientists.

’Afternoon.  At the railway stations the loafers carry both hands in their breeches pockets; it was observable, heretofore, that one hand was sometimes out of doors,—­here, never.  This is an important fact in geography.’

If the loafers determined the character of a country, it would be still more important, of course.

’Heretofore, all along, the station-loafer has been often observed to scratch one shin with the other foot; here, these remains of activity are wanting.  This has an ominous look.’

By and by, we entered the tobacco-chewing region.  Fifty years ago, the tobacco-chewing region covered the Union.  It is greatly restricted now.

Next, boots began to appear.  Not in strong force, however.  Later—­away down the Mississippi—­they became the rule.  They disappeared from other sections of the Union with the mud; no doubt they will disappear from the river villages, also, when proper pavements come in.

We reached St. Louis at ten o’clock at night.  At the counter of the hotel I tendered a hurriedly-invented fictitious name, with a miserable attempt at careless ease.  The clerk paused, and inspected me in the compassionate way in which one inspects a respectable person who is found in doubtful circumstances; then he said—­

’It’s all right; I know what sort of a room you want.  Used to clerk at the St. James, in New York.’

An unpromising beginning for a fraudulent career.  We started to the supper room, and met two other men whom I had known elsewhere.  How odd and unfair it is:  wicked impostors go around lecturing under my nom de guerre and nobody suspects them; but when an honest man attempts an imposture, he is exposed at once.

One thing seemed plain:  we must start down the river the next day, if people who could not be deceived were going to crop up at this rate:  an unpalatable disappointment, for we had hoped to have a week in St. Louis.  The Southern was a good hotel, and we could have had a comfortable time there.  It is large, and well conducted, and its decorations do not make one cry, as do those of the vast Palmer House, in Chicago.  True, the billiard-tables were of the Old Silurian Period, and the cues and balls of the Post-Pliocene; but there was refreshment in this, not discomfort; for there is rest and healing in the contemplation of antiquities.