as being impracticable.  She was neat, clean, and comfortable.  We camped on the boiler deck, and bought some cheap literature to kill time with.  The vender was a venerable Irishman with a benevolent face and a tongue that worked easily in the socket, and from him we learned that he had lived in St. Louis thirty-four years and had never been across the river during that period.  Then he wandered into a very flowing lecture, filled with classic names and allusions, which was quite wonderful for fluency until the fact became rather apparent that this was not the first time, nor perhaps the fiftieth, that the speech had been delivered.  He was a good deal of a character, and much better company than the sappy literature he was selling.  A random remark, connecting Irishmen and beer, brought this nugget of information out of him—­

They don’t drink it, sir.  They can’t drink it, sir.  Give an Irishman lager for a month, and he’s a dead man.  An Irishman is lined with copper, and the beer corrodes it.  But whiskey polishes the copper and is the saving of him, sir.’

At eight o’clock, promptly, we backed out and crossed the river.  As we crept toward the shore, in the thick darkness, a blinding glory of white electric light burst suddenly from our forecastle, and lit up the water and the warehouses as with a noon-day glare.  Another big change, this—­ no more flickering, smoky, pitch-dripping, ineffectual torch-baskets, now:  their day is past.  Next, instead of calling out a score of hands to man the stage, a couple of men and a hatful of steam lowered it from the derrick where it was suspended, launched it, deposited it in just the right spot, and the whole thing was over and done with before a mate in the olden time could have got his profanity-mill adjusted to begin the preparatory services.  Why this new and simple method of handling the stages was not thought of when the first steamboat was built, is a mystery which helps one to realize what a dull-witted slug the average human being is.

We finally got away at two in the morning, and when I turned out at six, we were rounding to at a rocky point where there was an old stone warehouse—­at any rate, the ruins of it; two or three decayed dwelling-houses were near by, in the shelter of the leafy hills; but there were no evidences of human or other animal life to be seen.  I wondered if I had forgotten the river; for I had no recollection whatever of this place; the shape of the river, too, was unfamiliar; there was nothing in sight, anywhere, that I could remember ever having seen before.  I was surprised, disappointed, and annoyed.

We put ashore a well-dressed lady and gentleman, and two well-dressed, lady-like young girls, together with sundry Russia-leather bags.  A strange place for such folk!  No carriage was waiting.  The party moved off as if they had not expected any, and struck down a winding country road afoot.