sixteen small dishes or saucers which contain four kinds of fresh fruits, four kinds of dried fruits, four kinds of candied fruits, and four miscellaneous, such as preserved eggs, slices of ham, a sort of sardine, pickled cabbage, &c.  These four are in the middle, the other twelve being arranged alternately round them.  Wine is produced the first thing, and poured into small porcelain cups by the giver of the feast himself.  It is polite to make a bow and place one hand at the side of the cup while this operation is being performed.  The host then gives the signal to drink and the cups are emptied instantaneously, being often turned bottom upwards as a proof there are no heel-taps.  Many Chinamen, however, cannot stand even a small quantity of wine; and it is no uncommon thing when the feast is given at an eating-house, to hire one of the theatrical singing-boys to perform vicariously such heavy drinking as may be required by custom or exacted by forfeit.  The sixteen small dishes above-mentioned remain on the table during the whole dinner and may be eaten of promiscuously between courses.  Now we come to the dinner, which may consist of eight large and eight small courses, six large and six small, eight large and four small, or six large and four small, according to the means or fancy of the host, each bowl of food constituting a course being placed in the middle of the table and dipped into by the guests with chopsticks or spoon as circumstances may require.  The first is the commonest, and we append a bill of fare of an ordinary Chinese dinner on that scale, each course coming in its proper place.

     I. Sharks’ fins with crab sauce.
        1.  Pigeons’ eggs stewed with mushrooms.
        2.  Sliced sea-slugs in chicken broth with ham. 
    II.  Wild duck and Shantung cabbage.
        3.  Fried fish.
        4.  Lumps of pork fat fried in rice flour. 
   III.  Stewed lily roots.
        5.  Chicken mashed to pulp, with ham.
        6.  Stewed bamboo shoots. 
    IV.  Stewed shell-fish.
        7.  Fried slices of pheasant.
        8.  Mushroom broth. 
    Remove—­Two dishes of fried pudding, one sweet and the other salt,
        with two dishes of steamed puddings, also one sweet and one
        salt. [These four are put on the table together and with them
        is served a cup of almond gruel.]
     V. Sweetened duck. 
    VI.  Strips of boned chicken fried in oil. 
   VII.  Boiled fish (of any kind) with soy. 
  VIII.  Lumps of parboiled mutton fried in pork-fat.

These last four large courses are put on the table one by one and are not taken away.  Subsequently a fifth, a bowl of soup, is added, and small basins of rice are served round, over which some of the soup is poured.  The meal is then at an end.  A rince-bouche is handed to each guest and a towel dipped in boiling water but well wrung out.  With the last he mops his face all over, and the effect