Trees, Fruits and Flowers of Minnesota, 1916 eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 825 pages of information about Trees, Fruits and Flowers of Minnesota, 1916.

Trees, Fruits and Flowers of Minnesota, 1916 eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 825 pages of information about Trees, Fruits and Flowers of Minnesota, 1916.

The stems should be cut to about three or four inches of the roots, using a sharp knife, so as to make a clean cut.  To the stems attach the label firmly.  Loosen the earth about each clump before attempting to lift it, then run the spade or fork as far under it as possible and pry it gently out.  In this way the tubes will not be broken or injured where they join the stem, which is the only place where they can make the next season’s growth.  Most of the soil will drop off as they dry.  Lay the roots so that water will not have a chance to collect in the soft hollow stems, or crown rot may trouble you.

A cool, dry shed is a good place in which to cure the roots.  Lay them on boards and turn them occasionally so they will dry evenly.

In a week’s time they should be ready to store for winter, the best place being a frost-proof cellar.  Unless this is very dry, it is best to have boards raised a few inches above the floor on which to lay them.  This will allow a current of air to pass under them.  If a damp cellar must be used, air slaked lime sprinkled under the boards will help to keep them dry.  Cover them a little with dry sand.  The best temperature is 40 degrees.

Cannas can be lifted and stored at once.  Cut the stems off short, leaving enough to attach the labels to.  They keep best if lifted with as much soil about them as possible.  The clumps can be set close together, on boards arranged in the same way as for dahlias.  They will stand a slightly warmer temperature than dahlias.

Tuberous begonias, unlike dahlias and cannas, should be lifted without cutting the stems.  They should be cured in the sun for at least two weeks and during that time turned to dry evenly and kept perfectly dry.  A cold frame is a good place in which to do this.  When the stems part readily from the bulbs, the latter can be packed in boxes and stored in any dry place where the temperature will not fall below 40 degrees.  These are among the tenderest bulbs and should be the first to be lifted.

Gladioli should be lifted with their stems intact, tied in bundles and hung in a dry shed to dry.  When thoroughly dry, the stems can be cut off and the bulbs packed in boxes and stored the same as the begonias.  They are especially sensitive to heat, and if the air is too dry the bulbs will shrivel and lose much of their vitality.

Montbretias should be lifted out and stored in the same way as the gladioli.

Tuberoses should be lifted with the stems intact and spread out to dry or hung in a dry place.  When thoroughly cured, cut off the stems close to the bulb and store in the same way as gladioli.

Caladium, or Elephant’s Ears, should be lifted without disturbing the stem or leaves.  As the leaves dry they can be removed, but the stem should not be cut near the bulb, as this is the point of growth the following year.  They can be stored with the dahlias and cannas and are not apt to shrivel, as the bulb is so large and fleshy.

Copyrights
Project Gutenberg
Trees, Fruits and Flowers of Minnesota, 1916 from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.