Everything gives way to the Cathedral in point of interest and importance.  It is considered ’one of the most complete and beautiful in France, free from exuberant ornament, and captivating the eye by the elegance of proportion and arrangement.  Its plan possesses several peculiar features, comprising a nave with two west towers, side aisles, and chapels, filling up what would in other cathedrals be intervals between buttresses; north and south transepts, with an octagonal tower at their intersection; a choir with a polygonal apse, double aisles, with radiating chapels, and a Lady chapel at the east end.  The nave, which is 100 feet high, consists of six bays, with triforium and lofty clerestory.  The effect is exceedingly grand, and is enhanced by the lateral chapels seeming to constitute a second aisle all round.  The whole of this part of the building is worthy of the closest examination.  The interior of the large chapel of the south transept is very curious, circular at both ends.  The choir has three bays in its rectangle, and five bays in its apse, the latter being separated by coupled piers outside each other (not touching), of wonderful lightness and beauty.  The double aisle of the choir has a central range of single columns running all round it, and the effect of the intersection of so many shafts, columns, and vaultings is perfectly marvellous.  There is no triforium in the choir, but only a pierced parapet under the clerestory windows, which are filled with fine early glass.  There is much good glass, indeed, throughout the cathedral, and several interesting tombs.’

We quote this description in detail because the cathedral at Coutances is a rare gem, and possesses so many points of interest to the architect and antiquary.

The history of Coutances is like a history of the Roman Catholic Church, and the relics of bishops and saints meet us at every turn.  As early as the third century there are records of its conversion to Christianity; it has passed through every vicissitude of war, pillage, and revolution, until in these latter days it has earned the guide-book appellation of ‘a semi-clerical, semi-manufacturing, quiet, clean, agreeable town.’  There are about 9000 inhabitants, including a few English families, attracted here by its reputation for salubrity and cheapness of living.

The beauty of the situation of Coutances can scarcely be exaggerated; built upon the sides of a lofty hill commanding views over a vast extent of country, it is approached on both sides up steep hills, by broad smooth roads with avenues of trees and surrounding gardens, and is surmounted by its magnificent old cathedral, which is the last important building of the kind, that we shall see, until we reach Rouen; and one the traveller is never likely to forget, especially if he ascend the tower, as we did, one morning whilst service was being performed below.[24]