The following incident illustrates the shocks a traveller must put up with in New Guinea.

It was resting-day at a village, far away from the coast, and, spreading my chart out on the middle of the floor in the small native house in which we were camping, several sitting round, I was tracing our journey done, and the probable one to do, when strange drops were falling around, a few on the chart.  They came from a bulky parcel overhead.  Jumping up quickly, I discovered that they were grandmother’s remains being dried.  Our chart was placed on the fire, and the owner was called lustily, who hurriedly entered and walked away with the parcel.  It was altogether a hurried time, and spoiled our dinner.  Feeling convinced that a suitable locality for the settlement of teachers might be found in the neighbourhood of Orangerie Bay, I resolved on returning thither, and we anchored at Kuragori, on the east side of Dufaure Island, on April 25th, 1879.  I went ashore, and found the people delighted to meet me.  The chief, Tutuaunei, seems a fine young fellow.  The people are good-looking, clear-skinned, and very few suffering from skin disease.  They were quite at home with us, and a number accompanied me inland.  In strong trade winds, the vessel could lie under the lee of the mainland opposite.  We got on board, and steamed round to the north side, anchoring off Bonabona.

I went ashore, and was met on the beach by Meaudi, the chief.  He is the chief of four villages, some distance from one another, and all a good size.  I visited all four.  They have good houses, and all looks clean.  I saw no mangroves whatever, and no appearance of swamp.  The villages are on the beach, and I believe in good healthy positions.  We walked from Bonabona to Sigokoiro, followed by a large number of men, women, and children, who were much interested in my boots, clothes, and hat.  The chief lives in Gokora, and when on the platform in front of his fine large house I gave the present, and we exchanged names.  By adopting his name, it meant I was to visit all his very special friends, and give them also presents.  I called an old woman sitting by to come to me.  Very hesitatingly she came, and stretched forth her arm to receive a present.  I asked her to come nearer, which she did, when assured by the chief it was all right, and I put her present of beads round her neck.  Then all the people shouted, clapped their hands, and danced with delight.  After that, all the old women were produced.  We were well known by report to them, and so Tamate passed as a great taubada (chief).

Dufaure is a fine island, quite equal to any I have seen in the South Pacific—­plantations on all sides, right up to the mountain tops.  They know nothing of firearms, for, on inquiring if there were birds on the island, they asked if I had a sling.  The people are a much finer race, and freer than any I have seen further east.  The two races seem to meet here—­that from the Kerepunu side, and that from the east.  We are anchored some distance from the shore in three fathoms, and further out it is shallower.  The opposite shore on mainland looks low and unhealthy.