I shall never forget the singular scene[126] on entering Tepaleen at five in the afternoon, as the sun was going down.  It brought to my mind (with some change of dress, however) Scott’s description of Branksome Castle in his Lay, and the feudal system.  The Albanians, in their dresses, (the most magnificent in the world, consisting of a long white kilt, gold-worked cloak, crimson velvet gold-laced jacket and waistcoat, silver mounted pistols and daggers,) the Tartars with their high caps, the Turks in their vast pelisses and turbans, the soldiers and black slaves with the horses, the former in groups in an immense large open gallery in front of the palace, the latter placed in a kind of cloister below it, two hundred steeds ready caparisoned to move in a moment, couriers entering or passing out with despatches, the kettle-drums beating, boys calling the hour from the minaret of the mosque, altogether, with the singular appearance of the building itself, formed a new and delightful spectacle to a stranger.  I was conducted to a very handsome apartment, and my health enquired after by the vizier’s secretary, ‘a-la-mode Turque!’

“The next day I was introduced to Ali Pacha.  I was dressed in a full suit of staff uniform, with a very magnificent sabre, &c.  The vizier received me in a large room paved with marble; a fountain was playing in the centre; the apartment was surrounded by scarlet ottomans.  He received me standing, a wonderful compliment from a Mussulman, and made me sit down on his right hand.  I have a Greek interpreter for general use, but a physician of Ali’s, named Femlario, who understands Latin, acted for me on this occasion.  His first question was, why, at so early an age, I left my country?—­(the Turks have no idea of travelling for amusement.) He then said, the English minister, Captain Leake, had told him I was of a great family, and desired his respects to my mother; which I now, in the name of Ali Pacha, present to you.  He said he was certain I was a man of birth, because I had small ears, curling hair, and little white hands,[127] and expressed himself pleased with my appearance and garb.  He told me to consider him as a father whilst I was in Turkey, and said he looked on me as his son.  Indeed, he treated me like a child, sending me almonds and sugared sherbet, fruit and sweetmeats, twenty times a day.  He begged me to visit him often, and at night, when he was at leisure.  I then, after coffee and pipes, retired for the first time.  I saw him thrice afterwards.  It is singular, that the Turks, who have no hereditary dignities, and few great families, except the Sultans, pay so much respect to birth; for I found my pedigree more regarded than my title.[128]

“To-day I saw the remains of the town of Actium, near which Antony lost the world, in a small bay, where two frigates could hardly manoeuvre:  a broken wall is the sole remnant.  On another part of the gulf stand the ruins of Nicopolis, built by Augustus in honour of his victory.  Last night I was at a Greek marriage; but this and a thousand things more I have neither time nor space to describe.