Having received a letter of recommendation to the librarian, M. KLEIN, I delivered it to the porter—­and in a few seconds observed two short monks uncovered, advancing towards me.  M. Klein spoke French—­after a certain fashion—­which however made us understand one another well enough; and on walking along the cloisters, he took me by the arm to conduct me to the Abbot.  “But you have doubtless dined?” observed he,—­turning sharply upon me.  It was only between one and two o’clock; and therefore I thought I might be pardoned, even by the severest of their own order, for answering in the negative.  My guide then whispered to his attendant (who quickly disappeared) and carried me directly to the Abbot.  Such a visit was worth paying.  I entered with great solemnity; squeezing my travelling cap into a variety of forms, as I made obeisance,—­on observing a venerable man, nearer fourscore than seventy, sitting, with a black cap quite at the back part of his head, and surrounded by half a dozen young monks, who were standing and waiting upon him with coffee (after dinner) which was placed upon the table before him.  He was the Principal.  The old gentleman’s countenance was wan, and rather severely indented, but lighted up by a dark and intelligent pair of eyes.  His shoulders were shrouded in a large gray fur tippet; and, on receiving me, he demonstrated every mark of attention—­by giving his unfinished cup of coffee to one of his attendants, and, pulling off his cap, endeavouring to rise.  I advanced and begged there might be no further movement.  As he spoke French, we quickly understood each other.  He bade me see every thing that was worth seeing; and, on his renewing the dinner question, and receiving an answer in the negative, he commanded that a meal of some sort should be forthwith got ready.  In this, however, he had been anticipated by the librarian.

I made my retreating bow, and followed my guide who, by this time, had assumed quite a pleasant air of familiarity with me.  I accompanied him to the Library.  It is divided into three rooms; of which the largest, at the further end, is the most characteristic.  The central room is small, and devoted to MSS. none as I learnt, either very old, very curious, or very valuable.  The view from this suite of apartments must, on a fine day, be lovely.  Bad as was the weather, when I looked from the windows, I observed, to the left, some gently sloping and sweetly wooded pleasure grounds, with the town of Ens, in the centre, at the distance of about three miles.  To the right, were more undulating hills, with rich meadows in the foreground; while, immediately below, was the ornamented garden of the monastery.