merely of a fortified enclosure, a few commonplace
houses occupied by the wealthy inhabitants or by government
officials, and on mounds of ancient debris,
the accumulation of centuries, a number of ephemeral
hovels built of clay, or dried bricks, divided into
irregular blocks by winding alleys. The whole
local interest was centred in the sanctuary and its
inmates, human and divine. The traveller made
his way in as best he could, went into ecstasies over
the objects that were shown to him, and as soon as
he had duly gone the rounds, set out for the next place
on his list, deeming himself lucky if he happened
to arrive during one of the annual fairs, such as
that of Bubastis, for instance. Bands of pilgrims
flocked in from all parts of Egypt; the river craft
were overflowing with men and women, who converted
the journey into one long carnival. Every time
the vessel put in to land, the women rushed on shore,
amid the din of castanets and flutes, and ran hither
and thither challenging the women of the place with
abuse to dance against them with uplifted garments.
To the foreigners there was little to distinguish the
festival of Bastit from many other Egyptian ceremonies
of the kind; it consisted of a solemn procession,
accompanied by the singing of hymns and playing of
harps, dancing and sacrifices, but for weeks before
and after it the town was transformed into one vast
pleasure-ground. The people of Bubastis took
a certain pride in declaring that more wine was drunk
in it during a single day than during the rest of the
whole year. Buto enjoyed exceptional popularity
among the Greeks in Egypt. Its patron goddess,
the Isis who took refuge amid the pools in a moving
thicket of reeds and lotus, in order that she might
protect her son Horus from the jealousy of Typhon,
reminded them of the story of Latona and the cycle
of the Delian legends; they, visited her in crowds,
and her oracle became to most of them what that of
Delos was to their brethren in Europe. At Buto
they found a great temple, similar to all Egyptian
temples, a shrine in which the statues of the goddess
continued her mysterious existence, and, in the midst
of the sacred lake, the little island of Khemmis,
which was said to float hither and thither upon the
waters. Herodotus did not venture to deny this
absolutely, but states that he had never seen it change
its position or even stir: perhaps his incredulity
may have been quickened by the fact that this miracle
had already been inquired into by Hecatasus of Miletus,
an author who was his pet aversion. The priests
of Buto declared that their prophets had foretold
everything that had happened for a long time past,
and for each event they had a version which redounded
to the credit of their goddess: she had shown
Pheron how he might recover his sight, had foretold
how long the reign of Mykerinos would last, had informed
Psammetichus that he would be saved by men of brass
rising out of the sea, and had revealed to Cambyses


