de G., living at a chateau about three leagues from that place.  She possesses a collection of carved wood, in bas-reliefs, porches, stair-cases, &c. all from a neighbouring dilapidated abbey; and, among other things, one singular piece of sculpture, descriptive of the temptation of St Anthony.  He had reason to think that the Countess might be more successfully tempted than was the Saint just mentioned; in other words, that these things were to be had rather for “money” than for “love.”

For specimens of the costume of the lower classes, the south side of the Seine must be chiefly visited.  The great streets which lead thither are those of St. Victor, St. Jaques, and De La Harpe.  Mr. Lewis had frequently strolled to this quarter of Paris; and his attention was one morning particularly directed to a group of Blanchisseuses—­who were halting beneath their burdens to have a little gossip with each other.  See how characteristically he has treated the subject.

[Illustration]

One of the causes of the want of encouragement in NATIONAL ANTIQUITIES, among the French, may arise from the natural love of the people for what is gay and gaudy, rather than for what is grave and instructive.  And yet, when will nations learn that few things tend so strongly to keep alive a pure spirit of PATRIOTISM as such a study or pursuit?  As we reverence the past, so do we anticipate the future.  To love what our forefathers have done in arts, in arms, or in learning, is to lay the surest foundation for a proper respect for our own memories in after ages.  But with Millin, I fear, the study of Archaeology will sleep soundly, if not expire, among the Parisians.  VISCONTI has doubtless left a splendid name behind him here; but Visconti was an Italian.  No; my friend—­the ARTS have recently taken an exclusive turn for the admiration, even to adoration, of portrait and historical painters:  No LYSONSES, no BLORES, no MACKENZIES are patronised either at Paris or in the other great cities of France.  I must however make an honourable exception in favour of the direction given to the splendid talents of MADAME JAQUOTOT.  And I cannot, in common justice, omit, on this occasion, paying a very sincere tribute of respect to the PRESENT KING[193]—­who has really been instrumental to this direction.  I have lately paid this clever lady a morning visit, with a letter of introduction from our common friend M. Langles.  As I was very courteously received, I begged that I might only see such specimens of her art as would give her the least possible trouble, and afford me at the same time an opportunity of judging of her talents.