We returned over these forty-one miles in fifteen hours, through much deep water.  Our scouts played us false both in time and beads:  the headmen punished them.  I got lunars, for a wonder.  Visited Chitunkubwe, as his name properly is.  He is a fine jolly-looking man, of a European cast of countenance, and very sensible and friendly.  I gave him two cloths, for which he seemed thankful, and promised good guides to Matipa’s.  He showed me two of Matipa’s men who had heard us firing guns to attract one of our men who had strayed; these men followed us.  It seems we had been close to human habitations, but did not know it.  We have lost half a month by this wandering, but it was all owing to the unfriendliness of some and the fears of all.  I begged for a more northerly path, where the water is low.  It is impossible to describe the amount of water near the Lake.  Rivulets without number.  They are so deep as to damp all ardour.  I passed a very large striped spider in going to visit Chitunkubwe.  The stripes were of yellowish green, and it had two most formidable reddish mandibles, the same shape as those of the redheaded white ant.  It seemed to be eating a kind of ant with a light-coloured head, not seen elsewhere.  A man killed it, and all the natives said that it was most dangerous.  We passed gardens of dura; leaves all split up with hail, and forest leaves all punctured.

6th February, 1873.—­Chitunkubwe gave a small goat and a large basket of flour as a return present.  I gave him three-quarters of a pound of powder, in addition to the cloth.

7th February, 1873.—­This chief showed his leanings by demanding prepayment for his guides.  This being a preparatory step to their desertion I resisted, and sent men to demand what he meant by his words; he denied all, and said that his people lied, not he.  We take this for what it is worth.  He gives two guides to-morrow morning, and visits us this afternoon.

8th February, 1873.—­The chief dawdles, although he promised great things yesterday.  He places the blame on his people, who did not prepare food on account of the rain.  Time is of no value to them.  We have to remain over to-day.  It is most trying to have to wait on frivolous pretences.  I have endured such vexatious delays.  The guides came at last with quantities of food, which they intend to bargain with my people on the way.  A Nassicker who carried my saddle was found asleep near my camp.

9th February, 1873.—­Slept in a most unwholesome, ruined village.  Rank vegetation had run over all, and the soil smelled offensively.  Crossed a sponge, then a rivulet, and sponge running into the Miwale Eiver, then by a rocky passage we crossed the Mofiri, or great Tinga-tinga, a water running strongly waist and breast deep, above thirty feet broad here, but very much broader below.  After this we passed two more rills and the River Methonua, but we build a camp above our former one.  The human ticks called “papasi” by the Suaheli, and “karapatos” by the Portuguese, made even the natives call out against their numbers and ferocity.