I arrived at York Factory, the depot of the Northern department, early in July.  This establishment presents a more respectable appearance than any other that I have seen in Rupert’s Land, and reflects no small credit on the talents and taste of him who planned, and partly executed, the existing improvements, all which have been effected since the coalition.  When Mr. McT. first assumed the command, the buildings were of the most wretched description—­the apartments had more the appearance of cells for criminals, than of rooms for gentlemen.

The yielding nature of the swampy ground on which the buildings were to be erected rendering it necessary to lay a solid foundation, the object was accomplished in the face of every difficulty, and at a great expense; and the present commodious buildings were commenced, but not finished by the projector.  Other improvements have been made since then, so that they afford every comfort and convenience that could be expected in so unfavourable a situation.

The depot is at present under the charge of a chief factor, assisted by a chief trader, a surgeon, and two clerks.  Here there is always a sufficient supply of goods and provisions on hand to meet the demand of the trade for two years—­a wise precaution, as in the event of any accident happening to prevent the vessel from reaching her destination, the trade would not be interrupted.  The very emergency thus provided for occurred last autumn; the ship, after dropping anchor in her usual mooring ground, was compelled by stress of weather to bear away for England, after loosing her anchors, and sustaining other serious damages.  Yet notwithstanding this untoward event, the gentlemen in charge of the different districts set off for the interior with their outfits complete.

The climate, although extremely disagreeable, is not considered unhealthy.  In summer the extremes of heat and cold are experienced in the course of a few hours; in the morning you may be wearing nankeen, and before noon, duffle.  Were the heat to continue for a sufficient length of time to thaw the ground thoroughly, the establishment could not be kept up save at a great sacrifice of life, through the mephitic exhalations from the surrounding swamps.  The ground, however, seldom thaws more than eighteen inches, and the climate therefore is never affected by them to such a degree as to become unhealthy.

One of Mr. McT——­’s most beneficial improvements was to clear the swamps surrounding the factory of the brushwood with which they were thickly covered; and the inmates are now in a great measure relieved from the torture to which they were formerly exposed from the mosquitoes.  These vampires are not so troublesome in the cleared ground, but whoever dares to intrude on their domain pays dearly for his temerity.  Every exposed part of the body is immediately covered with them; defence is out of the question; the death of one is avenged by the stings of a thousand equally bloodthirsty; and the unequal contest is soon ended by the flight of the tormented party to his quarters, whither he is pursued to his very door.