light-coloured people are strewed among the Makonde, but only one of these had the Arab hair.  On asking Ali whether any attempts had been made by Arabs to convert those with whom they enter into such intimate relationships, he replied that the Makonde had no idea of a Deity—­no one could teach them, though Makonde slaves when taken to the coast and elsewhere were made Mahometans.  Since the slave-trade was introduced this tribe has much diminished in numbers, and one village makes war upon another and kidnaps, but no religious teaching has been attempted.  The Arabs come down to the native ways, and make no efforts to raise the natives to theirs; it is better that it is so, for the coast Arab’s manners and morals would be no improvement on the pagan African!

19th April, 1866.—­We were led up over a hill again, and on to the level of the plateau (where the evaporation is greater than in the valley), and tasted water of an agreeable coldness for the first time this journey.  The people, especially the women, are very rude, and the men very eager to be employed as woodcutters.  Very merry they are at it, and every now and then one raises a cheerful shout, in which all join.  I suppose they are urged on by a desire to please their wives with a little clothing.  The higher up the Rovuma we ascend the people are more and more tattooed on the face, and on all parts of the body.  The teeth are filed to points, and huge lip-rings are worn by the women; some few Mabeha men from the south side of the river have lip-rings too.

20th April, 1866.—­A Johanna man allowed the camels to trespass and destroy a man’s tobacco patch:  the owner would not allow us after this to pass through his rice-field, in which the route lay.  I examined the damage, and made the Johanna man pay a yard of calico for it, which set matters all right.

Tsetse are biting the buffaloes again.  Elephants, hippopotami, and pigs are the only game here, but we see none:  the tsetse feed on them.  In the low meadow land, from one to three miles broad, which lies along both banks, we have brackish pools, and one, a large one, which we passed, called Wrongwe, had much fish, and salt is got from it.

21st April, 1866.—­After a great deal of cutting we reached the valley of Mehambwe to spend Sunday, all glad that it had come round again.  Here some men came to our camp from Ndonde, who report that an invasion of Mazitu had three months ago swept away all the food out of the country, and they are now obliged to send in every direction for provisions.  When saluting, they catch each other’s hands and say, “Ai!  Ai!” but the general mode (introduced, probably by the Arabs) is to take hold of the right hand, and say, “Marhaba” (welcome).

A wall-eyed ill-looking fellow, who helped to urge on the attack on our first visit in 1861, and the man to whom I gave cloth to prevent a collision, came about us disguised in a jacket.  I knew him well, but said nothing to him.[7]