132
49.  On the House-top, Marrakesh 138
50.  A House Interior, Marrakesh 142
51.  A Glimpse of the Atlas Mountains 146
52.  A Marrakshi 150
53.  Street in Marrakesh 154
54.  An Arab Steed 158
55.  A Young Marrakshi 162
56.  Fruit Market, Marrakesh 164
57.  In the Fandak 166
58.  The Jama’a Effina 170
59.  Evening in Camp 178
60.  Preparing Supper 182
61.  A Goatherd 186
62.  Coming from the Mosque, Hanchen 190
63.  Evening at Hanchen 198
64.  On the Road to Argan Forest 202
65.  The Snake Charmer 204
66.  In Camp 206
67.  A Countryman 208
68.  Moonlight 212
69.  A Moorish Girl 216
70.  A Narrow Street in Mogador 218
71.  Night Scene, Mogador 220
72.  House Tops, Mogador 222
73.  Selling Grain in Mogador 224
74.  Selling Oranges 226

The Illustrations in this volume have been engraved in England by the Hentschel Colourtype Process.

BY CAPE SPARTEL

[Illustration:  A shepherd, Cape Spartel]

CHAPTER I

BY CAPE SPARTEL

    Over the meadows that blossom and wither
      Rings but the note of a sea-bird’s song,
    Only the sun and the rain come hither
          All year long.

    The Deserted Garden.

Before us the Atlantic rolls to the verge of the “tideless, dolorous inland sea.”  In the little bay lying between Morocco’s solitary lighthouse and the famous Caves of Spartel, the waters shine in colours that recall in turn the emerald, the sapphire, and the opal.  There is just enough breeze to raise a fine spray as the baby waves reach the rocks, and to fill the sails of one or two tiny vessels speeding toward the coast of Spain.  There is just enough sun to warm the water in the pools to a point that makes bathing the most desirable mid-day pastime, and over land and sea a solemn sense of peace is brooding.  From where the tents are set no other human habitation is in sight.  A great spur of rock, with the green and scarlet of cactus sprawling over it at will, shuts off lighthouse and telegraph station, while the towering hills above hide the village of Mediunah, whence our supplies are brought each day at dawn and sun-setting.