sentry, as though in command of a gang of convicts,
here and there an official of some society for the
protection of animals, but he is quite useless.
Whether he be armed to quell a rebellion or to put
the injured animals out of their pain, I know not.
In any case, he is a sign of the state of life in these
valleys of marble. Out of this insensate hell
come the impossible statues that grin about our cities.
Here, cut by the most hideous machinery with a noise
like the shrieking of iron on iron, the mantelpieces
and washstands of every jerry-built house and obscene
emporium of machine-made furniture are sawn out of
the rock. There is no joy in this labour, and
the savage, harsh yell of the machines drowns any
song that of old might have lightened the toil.
Blasted out of the mountains by slaves, some 13,000
of them, dragged by tortured and groaning animals,
the marble that might have built a Parthenon is sold
to the manufacturer to decorate the houses of the
middle classes, the studios of the incompetent, the
streets of our trumpery cities. Do you wonder
why Carrara has never produced a sculptor? The
answer is here in the quarries that, having dehumanised
man, have themselves become obscene. The frightful
leprous glare of crude whiteness that shines in every
cemetery in Europe marks only the dead; the material
has in some strange way lost its beauty, and with
the loss of beauty in the material the art of sculpture
has been lost. These thousands of slaves who are
hewing away the mountains are ludicrous and ridiculous
in their brutality and absurdity. They have sacrificed
their humanity for no end. The quarries are worked
for money, not for art. The stone is cut not
that Rodin may make a splendid statue, but that some
company may earn a dividend. As you climb higher
and higher, past quarry after quarry, it is a sense
of slavery and death that you feel. Everywhere
there is struggle, rebellion, cruelty; everywhere
you see men, bound by ropes, slung over the dazzling
face of the cliffs, hacking at the mountains with
huge iron pikes, or straining to crash down a boulder
for the ox wagons. As you get higher an anxious
and disastrous silence surrounds you, the violated
spirit of the mountains that has yielded itself only
to the love of Michelangelo seems to be about to overwhelm
you in some frightful tragedy. In the shadowless
cool light of early morning, these pallid valleys,
horrid with noise of struggle and terror, the snorting
of a horse, the bellow of a bullock in pain, seem like
some fantastic dream of a new Inferno; but when at
last the enormous sun has risen over the mountains,
and flooded the glens with furious heat, it is as though
you walked in some delirium, a shining world full of
white fire dancing in agony around you. You stumble
along, sometimes waiting till a wagon and twelve oxen
have been beaten and thrust past you on the ascent,
sometimes driven half mad by the booming of the dynamite,
here threading an icy tunnel, there on the edge of