the servants are men almost, and those all paid by the week or day.  Children are very seldom seen by those who visit great houses:  if they do come down for five minutes after dinner, the parents are talked of as doting on them, and nothing can equal the pious and tender return made to fathers and mothers in this country, for even an apparently moderate share of fondness shewn to them in a state of infancy.  I saw an old Marchioness the other day, who had I believe been exquisitely beautiful, lying in bed in a spacious apartment, just like ours in the old palaces, with the tester touching the top almost:  she had her three grown-up sons standing round her, with an affectionate desire of pleasing, and shewing her whatever could sooth or amuse her—­so that it charmed me; and I was told, and observed indeed, that when they quitted her presence a half kneeling bow, and a kind kiss of her still white hand, was the ceremony used.  I knew myself brought thither only that she might be entertained with the sight of the foreigner—­and was equally struck at her appearance—­more so I should imagine than she could be at mine; when these dear men assisted in moving her pillows with emulative attention, and rejoiced with each other apart, that their mother looked so well to-day.  Two or three servants out of livery brought us refreshments I remember; but her maid attended in the antichamber, and answered the bell at her bed’s head, which was exceedingly magnificent in the old style of grandeur—­crimson damask, if I recollect right, with family arms at the back; and she lay on nine or eleven pillows, laced with ribbon, and two large bows to each, very elegant and expensive in any country:—­with all this, to prove that the Italians have little sensation of cold, here was no fire, but a suffocating brazier, which stood near the door that opened, and was kept open, into the maid’s apartment.

A woman here in every stage of life has really a degree of attention shewn her that is surprising:—­if conjugal disputes arise in a family, so as to make them become what we call town-talk, the public voice is sure to run against the husband; if separation ensues, all possible countenance is given to the wife, while the gentleman is somewhat less willingly received; and all the stories of past disgusts are related to his prejudice:  nor will the lady whom he wishes to serve look very kindly on a man who treats his own wife with unpoliteness. Che cuore deve avere! says she:  What a heart he must have! Io non mene fido sicuro:  I shall take care not to trust him sure.

National character is a great matter:  I did not know there had been such a difference in the ways of thinking, merely from custom and climate, as I see there is; though one has always read of it:  it was however entertaining enough to hear a travelled gentleman haranguing away three nights ago at our house in praise of English cleanliness, and telling his auditors how all the men in London, that were noble, put on a clean shirt every day, and the women washed the street before his house-door every morning. “Che schiavitu mai!” exclaimed a lady of quality, who was listening:  “ma natural mente fara per commando del principe.”—­“What a land of slavery!” says Donna Louisa, I heard her; “but it is all done by command of the sovereign, I suppose.”