The Art of Perfumery eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 224 pages of information about The Art of Perfumery.

The Art of Perfumery eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 224 pages of information about The Art of Perfumery.

Liquid ammonia, 1 pint. 
Otto of rosemary, 1 drachm.
  " English lavender, 1 "
  " bergamot, 1/2 "
  " cloves, 1/2 "

Mix the whole together with agitation in a very strong and well-stoppered bottle.

This mixture is used by filling the smelling-bottles with any porous absorbent material, such as asbestos, or, what is better, sponge cuttings, that have been well beaten, washed, and dried.  These cuttings can be procured at a nominal price from any of the sponge-dealers, being the trimming or roots of the Turkey sponge, which are cut off before the merchants send it into the retail market.  After the bottles are filled with the sponge, it is thoroughly saturated with the scented ammonia, but no more is poured in than the sponge will retain, when the bottles are inverted; as, if by any chance the ammonia runs out and is spilt over certain colored fabrics, it causes a stain.  When such an accident happens, the person who sold it is invariably blamed.

When the sponge is saturated properly, it will retain the ammoniacal odor longer than any other material; hence, we presume, bottles filled in this way are called “inexhaustible,” which name, however, they do not sustain more than two or three months with any credit; the warm hand soon dissipates the ammonia under any circumstances, and they require to be refilled.

For transparent colored bottles, instead of sponge, the perfumers use what they call insoluble crystal salts (sulphate of potass).  The bottles being filled with crystals, are covered either with the liquid ammonia, scented as above, or with alcoholic ammonia.  The necks of the bottles are filled with a piece of white cotton; otherwise, when inverted, from the non-absorbent quality of the crystals, the ammonia runs out, and causes complaints to be made.  The crystals are prettier in colored bottles than the sponge; but in plain bottles the sponge appears quite as handsome, and, as before observed, it holds the ammonia better than any other material.  Perfumers sell also what is called WHITE SMELLING SALTS, and PRESTON SALTS.  The White Smelling Salt is the sesqui-carbonate of ammonia in powder, with which is mixed any perfuming otto that is thought fit,—­lavender otto giving, as a general rule, the most satisfaction.

PRESTON SALTS, which is the cheapest of all the ammoniacal compounds, is composed of some easily decomposable salt of ammonia and lime, such as equal parts of muriate of ammonia, or of sesqui-carbonate of ammonia, and of fresh-slaked lime.  When the bottles are filled with this compound, rammed in very hard, a drop or two of some cheap otto is poured on the top prior to corking.  For this purpose otto of French lavender, or otto of bergamot, answers very well.  We need scarcely mention that the corks are dipped into melted sealing-wax, or brushed over with liquid wax, that is, red or black wax dissolved in alcohol, to which a small portion of ether is added.  The only other compound of ammonia that is sold in the perfumery trade is Eau de Luce, though properly it belongs to the druggist.  When correctly made—­which is very rarely the case—­it retains the remarkable odor of oil of amber, which renders it characteristic.

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The Art of Perfumery from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.