harbour, and stood out to sea.  The tide was running briskly and strongly into the harbour.  We were in truth closely stowed; and as these packets are built with flattish bottoms, and low sides, a rough sea would not fail to give to a crew, thus exposed, the appearance of half-drowned rats.  Luckily the wind began to subside, and by degrees old ocean wore a face of undisturbed serenity.  Our crew was a motley one; but among them, an Abbess, with a visage of parchment-like rigidity, and with her broad streaming bands, seemed to experience particular distress.  She was surrounded by some hale, hearty market women, whose robust forms, and copper-tinted countenances, formed a striking contrast to her own.  A little beyond was an old officer or two, with cocked hats of the usually capacious dimensions.  But the poor Abbess was cruelly afflicted; and in a gesture and tone of voice, of the most piteous woe, implored the steward of the vessel for accommodation below.

Fortunately, as I was not in the least annoyed by sickness, I had leisure to survey the heights of Honfleur before we landed; and looking towards the course of the River Seine, as it narrowed in its windings, I discovered Harfleur and Hocher nearly opposite; and, a good deal lower down, the little fishing town of Quillebeuf, apparently embedded in the water.  Honfleur itself is surely among the most miserable of fishing towns[93]—­or whatever be the staple commodity that supports it.  But the environs make amends for the squalidness of the town.  A few years of peace and plenty would work wonders even in the improvements of these environs.  Perhaps no situation is more favourable for the luxury of a summer retirement.[94] I paid only eight sous for my passage; and having no passport to be vised (which indeed was the case at Havre,) we selected a stout lad or two, from the crowds of lookers on, as we landed, to carry our luggage to the inn from which the diligence sets off for CAEN.  It surprised us to see with what alacrity these lads carried the baggage up a steep hill in their trucks, or barrows; but we were disgusted with the miserable forms, and miserable clothing, of both sexes, which we encountered as we proceeded.  I was fortunate to be in time to secure my place in the Diligence.  The horses were in the very act of being put to, as I paid my reckoning beforehand.

Judge of our surprise and gratification on seeing two well-dressed, and apparently well-bred Englishmen, securing their places at the same time.  It is not always that, at first sight, Englishmen associate so quickly, and apparently so cordially, as did these gentlemen with ourselves.  They were the Messrs. D*** of L**** Hall in Yorkshire:  the elder brother an Oxford man of the same standing with myself.  The younger, a Cantab.  We were all bound for Caen; and right gladly did we coalesce upon this expedition.