and overshadowing masses of oak, which give to Monmouthshire, and its neighbouring county of Glocester, that rich and majestic appearance which so decidedly marks the character of those counties.  However, we are now at the inn at Pont Ouilly.  A dish of river fish, gudgeons, dace, and perch, was speedily put in requisition.  Good wine, “than which France could boast no better!” and a roast fowl, which the daughter of the hostess “knew how to dress to admiration” ... was all that this humble abode could afford us.”  “But we were welcome:”—­that is, upon condition that we paid our reckoning....

The dinner would be ready in a “short half hour.”  Mr. Lewis, went to the bridge, to look around, for the purpose of exercising his pencil:  while I sauntered more immediately about the house.  Within five minutes a well-looking, and even handsome, young woman—­of an extremely fair complexion—­her hair cut close behind—­her face almost smothered in a white cap which seemed of crape—­and habited in a deep black—­passed quickly by me, and ascended a flight of steps, leading to the door of a very humble mansion.  She smiled graciously at the aubergiste as she passed her, and quickly disappeared.  On enquiry, I was told that she was a nun, who, since the suppression of the convent to which she had belonged, earned her livelihood by teaching some of the more respectable children in the village.  She had just completed her twentieth year.  I was now addressed by a tall, bluff, shabby-looking man—­who soon led me to understand that he was master of the inn where my “suite” was putting up;—­that I had been egregiously deceived about the nature of the road—­for that it was totally impossible for one horse:—­even the very best in Normandy—­(and where will you find better? added he, parenthetically—­as I here give it to you) to perform the journey with such a voiture and such a weight of luggage behind.”  I was struck equally with amazement and woe at this intelligence.  The unpitying landlord saw my consternation.  “Hark you, sir... (rejoined he) if you must reach Falaise this evening, there is only one method of doing it.  You must have another horse.”  “Willingly,” I replied.  “Yes, sir—­but you can have it only upon one condition.”  “What is that?” “I have some little business at Falaise myself.  Allow me to strap about one hundred weight of loaf-sugar at the back of your conveyance, and I myself will be your garcon de poste thither.”  I own I thought him about the most impudent fellow I had yet seen in Normandy:  but there was no time for resistance.  Necessity compelled acquiescence.  Accordingly, the dinner being dispatched—­which, though good, was charged at six francs a-head—­we prepared for our departure.