streamers.  Crowds of poor children chased along, beside and behind the carriages, catching at the showers of bits of paper, and at the long streamers, which they kept, or, in turn, hurled at passers.  The balconies of all the better houses were filled with people, as were the seats and raised platform fronting the town-house, and those in the balconies and on the seats rained down paper upon those in the carriages.  Many children in the balconies were masked, and wore grotesque costumes, but few grown persons were so decked out.  While pretty and characteristic, the Battle of Flowers disappointed us, lacking the life and “abandon” which one usually associates with the idea of carnival.  It was all reserved, and respectable, and unenthusiastic.  The only persons who really seemed to enjoy it were the poor children, with their loads of bright paper and long streamers.  Monday afternoon, the most striking function of the carnival, so far seen, took place.  This was an enormous procession of vehicles; private carriages, with elaborate equipment, were filled with finely-dressed gentlemen and ladies; common rented coaches were in line, and some of them were loaded to their full capacity with common people—­four, five, or even six, in one; in one were four brawny, young cargadors; in another an old grandmother, her two daughters, and some grandchildren, pure indians, rode complacently, enjoying the admiration which they knew their best clothes must attract; in some of the fine private coaches, no one but indian nurses or favored servants rode.  Even here, few of the parties were really dashing, lively or beautiful.  The whole thing was constrained, artificial and sedate.  An occasional group seemed to really enjoy the occasion.  One bony horse dragged an ancient buggy or cart, which might well be that of some country doctor, and in it was the gentleman himself, commonly dressed, but with a whole family of little people, who were bubbling over with enjoyment.  Another happy party was that of a common carter, who had his own dray in the line, with his children, neatly but commonly dressed, as its only occupants; in two or three carriages were maskers, though none of them appeared funny; one drayman’s cart had been hired by a crowd of loud and boisterous youngsters, who performed all kinds of pranks and bawled nonsensical remarks to the crowd.

[Illustration:  CARNIVAL AT PROGRESO]

[Illustration:  CARNIVAL AT PROGRESO]

My chief errand was to see the leader of the xtoles, to purchase from him some of the objects which they had used in their dance.  Just as I was starting, at evening, for the address he had given me, I met Senor Fernandez in the plaza, and he agreed to accompany me to the place.  We went some little distance on the street-car, and, dismounting at the corner of a narrow lane, were about to start through it, when someone touched my companion on the arm, and greeted him.  He recognized the owner of the little shop