that there were few Indians in Ozuluama, but that in Citlaltepec we would find abundance.  He gave us orders to his secretario, who represented him during his absence, and bade us god-speed.  We left at one o’clock, in a great canoe, a heavy, timber-framed boat, propelled by long poles, by oars in quiet and deep water, and by a clumsy sail.  A framework of poles, covered with matting, roofed over the middle of the boat, and a piece of matting was spread upon the floor.  Hanging blankets to shelter ourselves from the heavy wind yet blowing, we busied ourselves variously, the boys skinning birds which they had shot, and I making up my various notes.  The lagoon which we now entered was a large stretch of open water.  We raised our sail, and made easy work.  Having crossed the large lagoon, we entered the mouth of what probably would be considered a fair-sized river, which at first was closely bordered by a tangle of trees and vines, and presented a truly tropical appearance.  Palms were abundant, and, here and there, one of unusual size towered high above the rest.  The other trees were densely hung with long gray moss.  Now and then, we disturbed alligators along the banks, and we were told that snakes were abundant in the grass.  The quantity of water-birds was astonishing—­great and small white herons, large blue herons, little blue herons, the curious, dark wry-necks, and ducks by thousands.  The positions and attitudes of these long-necked and long-legged birds, in the water and on the trees, were curious and striking.  The boys kept busy shooting and skinning birds all the afternoon.  In the evening, the men built a fire with charcoal in a tin-lined box in the end of the canoe, and toasted tortillas and made coffee.  The awning was scarcely large enough to cover the whole party comfortably, when we lay down to sleep, but we wrapped up in blankets and spread mats for beds.  We suffered intensely with the cold, sleeping little.  At five o’clock our boat came to a stop along the bank, and at six it was light enough to disembark and explore.  Climbing up a little bank of clay, we found ourselves on a flat meadow, covered with grass and weeds, through which narrow trails ran to a few scattered palm-thatched huts.  With a letter from the jefe, we called at Senora Mora’s house.  This lady was a widow, whose husband had but lately died; she was well to do, and promised to supply us with animals after we should have had our breakfast.  This was long preparing, but at last good coffee, fine enchiladas and cheese were served, and, after eating heartily, we found six animals ready for us.  When we asked for our account, the good lady replied that the bill was $2.00.  It was plain that she had made no charge for either breakfast or animals, but only something for the boys whom she sent along to bring back the beasts.  At about eleven, we started on what was called seven leagues, but what was certainly the longest nine leagues we had travelled