After that matter was settled, we retired to sleep, and only awakened to partake of a substantial breakfast, for which, I have always suspected, we were indebted to the kind consideration Smith was held in by Mrs. Becky.  At any rate, every thing that we could desire was spread before us; and when we shook hands with the old stockman and his daughter, I observed that Smith held the woman’s hand with a firm grasp, as though reluctant to relinquish it.

Our friends waved an adieu, Smith cracked his whip, and sighed, Rover barked joyfully, as he saw preparations for moving, Fred and myself cautioned the stockman, for the last time, to be careful of our gold, and then we were off; and in half an hour’s time had shut out the hut behind a miniature hill, the first which we had seen for many days.

For two days we travelled, meeting teams and vehicles of all descriptions, owned by uncouth individuals, who asked us the news from Melbourne, and ridiculed us when we said that we didn’t know the price of ale and beer, or what flour was worth per ton.

As we advanced towards the mining district, the road was filled with people flocking that way, while hundreds were on their return to Melbourne or Sydney.

Wan, ghastly looking men were groaning upon the bottom of carts destitute of springs.  Others, hardly able to lift their feet, were staggering along for some city where they could receive the attentions of a physician, being too poor to employ one at the mines, and too destitute to ride towards civilization.

Occasionally we saw a poor wretch by the roadside, who had apparently lain down to die, too exhausted to proceed upon his journey; while others hailed us, and begged us, in God’s name, for a swallow of wine, or other stimulant, to cheer them on their way.

Long before we reached Ballarat our slender stock of liquors was exhausted, and yet we had not administered to the wants of one half of those who sought aid.  Indeed, had we listened to all who begged, our provisions would also have disappeared, and we should have had to trust to our purses to replenish our supply.

Smith was an old campaigner in these regions, and cheeked our generosity, by giving us a few words of advice, which we afterwards found were correct.

On we went, the road growing worse and worse as we advanced, and as the wheels sunk into the deep ruts, I thought the wagon would be shattered to pieces in the struggle to extricate it.  Dozens of teams were stuck, and despite the yells and curses of the drivers, the tired cattle refused to move.

Smith’s oxen, the freshest and strongest we had seen on the road, were often borrowed to give distressed teamsters a lift, so that our progress was rather slow; and it was not until five o’clock that we entered the town of Ballarat, and passed along the main street, which was graced with huts and tents of rough boards, on each side.

On we went, passing the “Melbourne Saloon,” the “Sydney Saloon,” the “London Hotel,” the “American Hotel,” the “Californians’ Retreat,” and numbers of other tents, decorated with huge letters of black paint, and all setting forth the peculiar merits which each offered to the weary traveller.