An engagement to be in Edinburgh and vicinity, cut short our stay in the north.  The very mild state of the weather, and a wish to see something of the coast between Aberdeen and Edinburgh, induced us to make the journey by water.

On Friday evening, the 14th, after delivering a lecture before the Total Abstinence Society, in company with William and Ellen Craft, I went on board the steamer bound for Edinburgh.  On reaching the vessel, we found the drawing-room almost entirely at our service, and prejudice against colour being unknown, we had no difficulty in getting the best accommodation which the steamer could furnish.  This is so unlike the pro-slavery, negro-hating spirit of America, that the Crafts seemed almost bewildered by the transition.  I had been in the saloon but a short time, when, looking at the newspapers on the table, I discovered the North Star.  It was like meeting with a friend in a strange land.  I looked in vain on the margin for the name of its owner, but as I did not feel at liberty to take it, and as it appeared to be alone, I laid the Liberator by its side to keep it company.

The night was a glorious one.  The sky was without a speck; and the clear, piercing air had a brilliancy I have seldom seen.  The moon was in its zenith—­the steamer and surrounding objects were beautiful in the extreme.  The boat got under weigh at a little past twelve, and we were soon out at sea.  The “Queen” is a splendid craft, and without the aid of sails, was able to make fifteen miles within the hour.  I was up the next morning before the sun, and found the sea as on the previous night—­as calm and smooth as a mirror.  It was a delightful morning, more like April than February; and the sun, as it rose, seemed to fire every peak of the surrounding hills.  On our left, lay the Island of May, while to the right was to be seen the small fishing town of Anstruther, twenty miles distant from Edinburgh.  Beyond these, on either side, was a range of undulating blue mountains, swelling as they retired, into a bolder outline and a loftier altitude, until they terminated some twenty-five or thirty miles in the dim distance.  A friend at my side pointed out a place on the right, where the remains of an old castle or look-out house, used in the time of the border wars, once stood, and which reminded us of the barbarism of the past.

But these signs are fast disappearing.  The plough and roller have passed over many of these foundations, and the time will soon come, when the antiquarian will look in vain for those places that history has pointed out to him, as connected with the political and religious struggles of the past.  The steward of the vessel came round to see who of the passengers wished for breakfast, and as the keen air of the morning had given me an appetite, and there being no prejudice on the score of colour, I took my seat at the table and gave ample evidence that I was not an invalid.  On returning to the deck again, I found we had entered the Forth, and that “Modern Athens” was in sight; and, far above every other object, with its turrets almost lost in the clouds, could be seen Edinburgh Castle.  After landing, a pleasant ride over one of the finest roads in Scotland, with a sprinkling of beautiful villas on either side, brought us once more to Cannon’s Hotel.