I was entranced with the river boat.  It was longer than the Columbia and Caledonia.  And it was propelled by steam.  It had the most enormous wheels.  And no sooner were we under way than I found that we were gliding along at the rate of twenty miles an hour.  The swiftly passing hills and palisades of the Hudson served to mark our speed.  There were great saloons, lovely awnings under which to read or lounge, promenade decks.  And there was a gay and well-behaved crowd of passengers....  At dinner we were seated at long tables, and served with every luxury.  And the whole journey cost me less than seven shillings.

On arriving at Albany that night at about nine o’clock I found myself in the best of luck.  I could get passage on a canal boat the next morning for Buffalo; rather I was permitted to sleep on board....  I got on and retired.  I awoke just as the boat was beginning to start.  I had never seen anything like this before.  The boat was narrow, sharp, gayly painted.  It was drawn by three horses, each ridden by a boy who urged the horses forward.  We traveled at the great speed of five miles an hour.

But it was delightful.  We were more than three days going from Albany to Buffalo.  The time was well spent.  The scenery was varied and beautiful.  All the while we were climbing, for Lake Erie, to which we had to be lifted, was much above us.  We went through lovely valleys; we ran beside glistening streams and rivers; we wound around hills.  The farms were large and prosperous.  The villages were new, fresh with white paint and green blinds, hidden among flowers and shrubbery.

You see, I am eighteen and these external objects realize my dreams and stimulate them.  I do not know these people.  They are frank, talkative, often vulgar and presuming.  But they are friendly.  There is much merriment on board, for we have to dodge down frequently to save our heads from the bridges which the farmers build right across the canal.  The ladies have to be warned and assisted.  There are narrow escapes and shouts of laughter.  And when the dinner bell is rung by a comical negro every one rushes for the dining room.  I am introduced again to the American oyster, raw, fried, and stewed.  It is the most delicious of discoveries among the new viands.  Then we have wonderful roast turkey, chicken, and the greatest variety of vegetables and sweets.  I am keeping a daily record of events and impressions to mail to my dear grandmother when I shall arrive at Buffalo....

Sometimes I get tired of the boat.  Then I go on land and run along the path behind the horses.  A young woman on her way to Michigan to teach school joins me in these reliefs from the tedium of the boat.  We exchange a few words.  But I see that I am not old enough for her.  I have already observed her in confiding conversation with a man about the age of Yarnell.  And soon they go together to trot along the path, to stray off a little into the