navigation, and the course of the river for a considerable
distance above the fall is full of rapids and obstructions.
Immediately above and below St. Paul the Mississippi
River receives several large tributary streams from
north-east and north west; the St. Peter’s or
Minnesota River coming from near the Coteau of the
Missouri, and the St. Croix unwatering the great tract
of pine land which lies West of Lake Superior; but
it is not alone to water communication that St. Paul
owes its commercial importance. With the same
restless energy of the Northern American, its leading
men have looked far into the future, and shaped their
course for later times; railroads are stretching out
in every direction to pierce the solitude of the yet
uninhabited prairies and pine forests of the North.
There is probably no part of the world in which the
inhabitants are so unhealthy as in America; but the
life is more trying than the climate, the constant
use of spirit taken “straight,” the incessant
chewing of tobacco with its disgusting accompaniment,
the want of healthier exercise, the habit of eating
in a hurry, all tend to cut short the term of man’s
life in the New World.’ Nowhere have I
seen so many young wrecks. “Yes, sir, we
live fast here,” said a general officer to me
one day on the Missouri; “And we die fast too,”
echoed a major from another part of the room.
As a matter of course, places possessing salubrious
climates are crowded with pallid seekers after health,
and as St. Paul enjoys a dry and bracing atmosphere
from its great elevation above the sea level, as well
as from the purity of the surrounding prairies, its
hotels—and they are many—are
crowded with the broken wrecks of half the Eastern
states; some find what they seek, but the majority
come to Minnesota only to die.
Business connected with the supply of the troops during
the coming winter in Red River, detained me for some
weeks in Minnesota, and as the letters which I had
despatched upon my arrival giving the necessary particulars
regarding the proposed arrangements, required at least
a week to obtain replies to, I determined to visit
in the interim the shores of Lake Superior. Here
I would glean what tidings I could of the progress
of the Expedition, from whose base at Fort William,
I would be only 100 miles distant, as well as examine
the% chances of Fenian intervention, so much talked
of in the American newspapers, as likely to place in
peril the flank of the expeditionary force as it followed
the devious track of swamp and forest which has on
one side Minnesota, and on the other the Canadian
Dominion.
Since my departure from Canada the weather had been
intensely warm: pleasant in Detroit, warm in
Chicago, hot in Milwaukie, and sweltering, blazing
in St. Paul, would have aptly described the temperature,
although the last named city is some hundred miles
more to the north than the first. But latitude
is no criterion of summer heat in America, and the
short Arctic summer of the Mackenzie River knows often
a fiercer heat than the swamp lands of the Carolinas.
So, putting together a very light field-kit, I started
early one morning from St. Paul for the new town of
Duluth, on the extreme westerly end of Lake Superior.