wind sweeping up the long reaches of the river; nothing
spoken, for such cold makes men silent, morose, and
savage. After four hours travelling, we stopped
to dine. It was only 9:30, but we had breakfasted
six hours before. We were some time before we
could make fire, but at length it was set going, and
we piled the dry driftwood fast upon the flames.
Then I set up my thermometer again; it registered 39
below zero, 71 degrees of frost. What it must
have been at day break I cannot say; but it was sensibly
colder than at ten o’clock, and I do not doubt
must have been 45 below zero. I had never been
exposed to any thing like this cold before. Set
full in the sun at eleven o’clock, the thermometer
rose only to 26 below zero, the sun seemed to have
lost all power of warmth; it was very low in the heavens,
the day being the shortest in the year; in fact, in
the centre of the river the sun did not show above
the steep south bank, while the wind had full sweep
from the north-east. This portion of the Saskatchewan
is the farthest north reached by the river in its
entire course. It here runs for some distance
a little north of the 51th parallel of north latitude,
and its elevation above the sea is about 1801 feet.
During the whole day we journeyed on, the wind still
kept dead against us, and at times it was impossible
to face its terrible keenness. The dogs began
to tire out; the ice cut their feet, and the white
surface was often speckled with the crimson icicles
that fell from their wounded toes. Out of the
twelve dogs composing my cavalcade, it would have
been impossible to select four good ones. Coffee,
Tete Noir, Michinass, and another whose name I forget,
underwent repeated whalings at the hands of my driver,
a half-breed from Edmonnton named Frazer. Early
in the afternoon the head of Tete Noir was reduced
to shapeless pulp from tremendous thrashings.
Michinass, or the “Spotted One,” had one
eye wherewith to watch the dreaded driver, and coffee
had devoted so much strength to wild lurches and sudden
springs in order to dodge the descending whip, that
he had none whatever to bestow upon his legitimate
toil of hauling me. At length, so useless did
he become, that he had to be taken out altogether
from the harness and left to his fate on the river.
“And this,” I said to myself, “is
dog-driving; this inhuman thrashing and varied cursing,
this frantic howling of dogs, this bitter, terrible
cold is the long-talked of mode of winter travel!”
To say that I was disgusted and stunned by the prospect
of such work for hundreds of Miles would be-only to
speak a portion of what I felt. Was the cold
always to be so crushing? were the dogs always to be
the same wretched creatures? Fortunately, no;
but it was only when I reached Victoria that night,
long after dark, that I learned that the day had been
very exceptionally severe, and that my dogs were unusually
miserable ones.
As at Edmonton so in the fort at Victoria the small-pox had again broken out; in spite of cold and frost the infection still lurked in many places, and in none more fatally than in this little settlement where, during the autumn, it had wrought so much havoc among the scanty community. In this distant settlement I spent the few days of Christmas; the weather had become suddenly milder, although the thermometer still stood below zero.


