nearly up to that of boiling water. A negro, after
carefully washing his hands, kept continually stirring
the leaves in all directions, till their external
dampness was quite evaporated, and the leaves
acquired the softness of linen rag, and a small pinch
of them, when rolled in the hollow of the hand,
became a little ball that would not unroll.
In this state the mass of tea was divided into
two portions, and a negro took each and set them on
a hurdle, formed of strips of bamboo, laid at
right angles, where they shook and kneaded the
leaves in all directions for a quarter of an hour,
an operation which requires habit to be properly
performed, and on which much of the beauty of
the product depends. It is impossible to describe
this process; the motion of the hands is rapid and
very irregular, and the degree of pressure requisite
varies according to circumstances; generally speaking,
the young negro women are considered more clever
at this part of the work than older persons.
As this process of rolling and twisting the leaves
goes on, their green juice is drained off through
the hurdle, and it is essential that the tea be
perfectly divested of the moisture, which is acrid,
and even corrosive, the bruising and kneading being
especially designed to break the parenchyma of
the leaf, and permit the escape of the sap.
When the leaves have been thus twisted and rolled, they are replaced in the great iron pan, and the temperature raised till the hand can no longer bear the heat at the bottom. For upwards of an hour the negroes are then constantly employed in separating, shaking, and throwing the foliage up and down, in order to facilitate the dessication, and much neatness and quickness of hand were requisite, that the manipulators might neither burn themselves nor allow the masses of leaves to adhere to the hot bottom of the pan. It is easy to see that, if the pan was placed within another pan filled with boiling water, and the leaves were stirred with an iron spatula, much trouble might be obviated. Still, the rolling and drying of the leaves were successfully performed; they became more and more crisp, and preserved their twisted shape, except some few which seemed too old and coriaceous to submit to be rolled up. The tea was then placed on a sieve, with wide apertures of regular sizes, and formed of flat strips of bamboo. The best rolled leaves, produced from the tips of the buds and the tenderest leaves, passed through this sieve, and were subsequently fanned, in order to separate any unrolled fragments which might have passed through them; this produce was called Imperial, or Uchim Tea. It was again laid in the pan till it acquired the leaden grey tint, which proved its perfect dryness, and any defective leaf which had escaped the winnowing and sifting was picked out by hand. The residue, which was left from the first fanning, was submitted to all the operations of winnowing, sifting, and scorching, and it then afforded the Fine


