8 large bowls, viz.—­

   Stewed Shark’s Fins
   Fine Shell Fish
   Mandarin Bird’s Nest
   Canton Fish Maw
   Fish Brain
   Meat Balls with Rock Fungus
   Pigeons stewed with Wai Shan (a strengthening herb)
   Stewed Mushroom

4 dishes, viz.—­

   Sliced Ham
   Roast Mutton
   Fowls
   Roast Sucking Pig

1 large dish, viz.—­

   Boiled Rock Fish

8 small bowls, viz.—­

   Stewed Pig’s Palate
   Minced Quails
   Stewed Fungus (another description)
   Sinews of the Whale Fish
   Rolled Roast Fowl
   Sliced Teals
   Stewed Duck’s Paw
   Peas stewed

We went all round the town, and then to see the ruins of the cathedral, and the traces of the destruction caused by the typhoon in 1874.  Next we paid a visit to the garden of Camoens, where he wrote his poems in exile.[20] The garden now belongs to a most courteous old Portuguese, with whom I managed, by the aid of a mixture of Spanish and French, to hold a conversation.  The place where Camoens’ monument is erected commands, however, an extensive prospect, but we had already seen it, and as Tom was anxious to get clear of the islands before dark we were obliged to hasten away.

[Footnote 20:  Luiz de Camoens, a celebrated Portuguese poet, born about 1520; fought against the Moors, and in India; but was often in trouble, and was frequently banished or imprisoned.  During his exile in Macao he wrote his great poem ‘The Lusiads,’ in which he celebrates the principal events in Portuguese history.]

On reaching the yacht, after some delay in embarking, we slipped our anchor as quickly as possible, and soon found ourselves in a nasty rolling sea, which sent me to bed at once.  Poor Tom, though he felt so ill that he could hardly hold his head up, was, however, obliged to remain on deck watching until nearly daylight; for rocks and islands abound in these seas, and no one on board could undertake the pilotage except himself.

Thursday, March 8th.—­When I went on deck at half-past six o’clock there was nothing to be seen but a leaden sky, a cold grey rolling sea, and two fishing junks in the far distance, nor did the weather improve all day.

Friday, March 9th.—­Everybody began to settle down to the usual sea occupations.  There was a general hair-cutting all round, one of the sailors being a capital barber, and there is never time to attend to this matter when ashore.  The wind was high and baffling all day.  At night the Great Bear and the Southern Cross shone out with rivalling brilliancy:  ‘On either hand an old friend and a new.’

Saturday, March 10th.—­A fine day, with a light fair breeze.  Passed the island of Hainan, belonging to China, situated at the entrance of the Gulf of Tonquin, which, though very barren-looking, supports a population of 150,000.