in the street: men in their shirt sleeves, lounging,
smoking, spitting (else the land were not Italy!),
or perhaps playing cards at a table under the leafless
bush of the wine-shop; women gossiping over their
needlework, or, gathered in sociable knots, combing
and binding up their sleek black hair; children sprawling
in the kindly dirt; the priest, biretta on head, nose
in breviary, drifting slowly upon some priestly errand,
and “getting through his office;” and the
immemorial goatherd, bare-legged, in a tattered sugar-loaf
hat, followed by his flock, with their queer anxious
faces, blowing upon his Pan’s-pipes (shrill
strains, in minor mode and plagal scale, a music older
than Theocritus), or stopping, jealously watched by
the customer’s avid Italian eyes, to milk “per
due centesimi”—say, a farthing’s
worth—into an outstretched, close-clutched
jug. Sometimes the almond orchards give place
to vineyards, or to maize fields, or to dusky groves
of walnut, or to plantations of scrubby oak where lean
black pigs forage for the delectable acorn. Sometimes
the valley narrows to a ravine, and signs of cultivation
disappear, and the voice of the Rampio swells to a
roar, and you become aware, between the hills that
rise gloomy and almost sheer beside you, of a great
solitude: a solitude that is intensified rather
than diminished by the sight of some lonely—infinitely
lonely—grange, perched far aloft, at a height
that seems out of reach of the world. What possible
manner of human beings, you wonder, can inhabit there,
and what possible dreary manner of existence can they
lead? But even in the most solitary places you
are welcomed and sped on by a chorus of bird-songs.
The hillsides resound with bird-songs continuously
for the whole seven miles,—and continuously,
at this season, for the whole four-and-twenty hours.
Blackbirds, thrushes, blackcaps, goldfinches, chaffinches,
sing from the first peep of dawn till the last trace
of daylight has died out, and then the nightingales
begin and keep it up till dawn again. And everywhere
the soft air is aromatic with a faint scent of rosemary,
for rosemary grows everywhere under the trees.
And everywhere you have the purity and brilliancy
and yet restraint of colour, and the crisp economy
of line, which give the Italian landscape its look
of having been designed by a conscious artist.
In and through his enjoyment of all these pleasantnesses, John felt that agreeable glow which he owed to his glimpse of the woman in the garden; and when at last he reached the Hotel Victoria, and, having dressed, found himself alone for a few moments with Lady Blanchemain, in the dim and cool sitting-room where she awaited her guests, he hastened to let her know that he shared her own opinion of the woman’s charms.
“Your beauty decidedly is a beauty,” he declared. “I wish you could have seen her as I saw her an hour ago, with a white sunshade, against a background of ilexes. It’s a thousand pities that painting should be a forgotten art.”