Things To Make eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 241 pages of information about Things To Make.

Things To Make eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 241 pages of information about Things To Make.

In Fig. 130 is shown the correct attitude or standing pose necessary to make the model rise quickly and sweep boldly up into the air without skimming the ground for some 10 to 20 yards as so many models do.  E is the elevator (7 by 3 inches); A the main plane (5-1/2 by 29 inches); W the wheels; and RS the rear skid, terminating in a piece of hooked steel wire.  The vertical bracing of these masts is indicated.  The best material to use for the purpose is Japanese silk gut, which is very light and strong.  To brace, drill a small, neat hole in the mast and rod where necessary, pass through, and tie.  Do the same with each one.

To return to the central mast, which must also form the chassis.  This is double and opened out beneath as shown in Fig. 131, yz being a piece similar to the sides, which completes, the triangle x y z and gives the necessary rigidity.  Attach this piece by first binding to its extremities two strips of aluminium, or by preference very thin tinned iron, Tl and T2.  Bend to shape and bind to xy, xz as shown in Fig. 131.

[Illustration:  Fig. 131.—­Front elevation of chassis.]

[Illustration:  Fig. l32.-Wheel for model aeroplane chassis.]

[Illustration:  Fig. 133.—­Plan of model aeroplane.]

The Wheels and Chassis.—­WW are the two wheels on which the model runs.  They are made of hollow brass curtain rings, 1 inch in diameter, such as can be bought at four a penny.  For spokes, solder two strips of thin tinned iron to the rings, using as little solder as possible. (Fig. 132.) To connect these wheels with the chassis, first bind to the lower ends of xy, xz two strips of thin tinned iron, T3 and T4, after drilling in them two holes of sufficient size to allow a piece of steel wire of “bonnet pin” gauge to pass freely, but not loosely, through them.  Soften the wire by making it red hot and allowing it to cool slowly, and solder one end of this wire (which must be quite straight and 5-1/4 inches long) to the centre of the cross pieces or spokes of one wheel.  Pass the axle through the holes in the ends of xy, xz, and solder on the other wheel.  Your chassis is then finished.

The rear skid (RS in Fig. 130) is attached to the central rod by gluing, and drilling a hole through both parts and inserting a wooden peg; or the upright may be mortised in.  On no account use nail, tack, or screw.  Attach the vertical masts and the horizontal ones about to be described by gluing and binding lightly with thread, or by neatly glued strips of the Hart’s fabric used for the planes.

Horizontal Spars, etc.—­To consider now the horizontal section or part plan of the model, from which, to avoid confusion, details of most vertical parts are omitted.  Referring to Fig. 133, it will be seen that we have three horizontal masts or spars—­HS1, 4 inches; HS2, 6 inches; and HS3, slightly over 12 inches long.  The last is well steamed, slightly curved and left to dry while confined in such a manner

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Things To Make from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.