selling, using, or setting on to a garment any buttons
covered with cloth, or other stuff of which garments
are made, shall forfeit five pounds for every dozen
of such buttons, or in proportion for any lesser quantity;”
by an Act of the seventh of George the First, “any
wearer of such unlawful buttons is liable to the penalty
of forty shillings per dozen, and in proportion for
any lesser quantity.” Several cases are
on record in which tradesmen have been heavily fined
under these; strange laws, and before they were repealed
it is related by Dr. Doran (in 1855) that one individual
not only got out of paying for a suit of clothes because
of the illegality of the tailor in using covered buttons,
but actually sued the unfortunate “snip”
for the informer’s share of the penalties, the
funniest part of the tale being that the judge who
decided the case, the barrister who pleaded the statute,
and the client who gained the clothes he ought to
have paid for, were all of them buttoned contrary to
law. These Acts were originally enforced to protect
the many thousands who at the time were employed in
making buttons of silk, thread, &c., by hand, and
not, as is generally supposed, in favour of
the metal button manufacturers, though on April 4,
1791, Thomas Gem, the solicitor to the committee for
the protection of the button trade, advertised a reward
for any information against the wearers of the unlawful
covered buttons. The “gilt button days”
of Birmingham was a time of rare prosperity, and dire
was the distress when, like the old buckles, the fashion
of wearing the gilt on the blue went out. Deputations
to royalty had no effect in staying the change, and
thousands were thrown on the parish. It was sought
to revive the old style in 1850, when a deputation
of button makers solicited Prince Albert to patronise
the metallic buttons for gentlemen’s coats,
but Fashion’s fiat was not to be gainsayed.
John Taylor, High Sheriff of Warwickshire in 1756,
is said to have sent out about L800 worth of buttons
per week. Papier mache buttons came in with Henry
Clay’s patent in 1778. He also made buttons
of slate. Boulton, of Soho, was the first to
bring out steel buttons with facets, and it is said
that for some of superior design he received as much
as 140 guineas per gross. Horn buttons, though
more correctly speaking they should have been called
“hoof” buttons, were a great trade at one
time, selling in 1801 as low as 5-1/2d. per gross.
“Maltese buttons” (glass beads mounted
in metal) were, in 1812, made here in large quantities,
as were also the “Bath metal drilled shank button”
of which 20,000 gross per week were sent out, and
a fancy cut white metal button, in making which 40
to 50 firms were engaged, each employing 20 to 40
hands, but the whole trade in these specialities was
lost in consequence of a few men being enticed to
or imprisoned in France, and there establishing a rival
manufacture. Flexible shanks were patented in
1825 by B. Sanders. Fancy silk buttons, with


