Now that stupendious Cluster of Pyramids affected me in a Manner different to all before; and I found it so finely group’d with verdant Groves, and here and there interspers’d with aspiring, but solitary Trees, that it no way lessened my Admiration, while it increased my Delight.  Those Trees, which I call solitary, as standing single, in opposition to the numerous Groves, which are close and thick (as I observ’d when I ascended to take a View of the several Cells) rise generally out of the very Clefts of the main Rock, with nothing, to Appearance, but a Soil or bed of Stone for their Nurture.  But though some few Naturalists may assert, that the Nitre in the Stone may afford a due Proportion of Nourishment to Trees and Vegetables; these, in my Opinion, were all too beautiful, their Bark, Leaf, and Flowers, carry’d too fair a Face of Health, to allow them even to be the Foster-children of Rock and Stone only.

Upon this Hill, or if you please, Grove of Rocks, are thirteen Hermits Cells, the last of which lies near the very Summit.  You gradually advance to every one, from Bottom to Top, by a winding Ascent; which to do would otherwise be Impossible, by reason of the Steepness; but though there is a winding Ascent to every Cell, as I have said, I would yet set at defiance the most observant, if a Stranger, to find it feasible to visit them in order, if not precaution’d to follow the poor Borigo, or old Ass, that with Paniers hanging on each Side of him, mounts regularly, and daily, up to every particular Cell.  The Manner is as follows: 

In the Paniers there are thirteen Partitions; one for every Cell.  At the Hour appointed, the Servant having plac’d the Paniers on his Back, the Ass, of himself, goes to the Door of the Convent at the very Foot of the Hill, where every Partition is supply’d with their several Allowances of Victuals and Wine.  Which, as soon as he has receiv’d, without any further Attendance, or any Guide, he mounts and takes the Cells gradually, in their due Course, till he reaches the very uppermost.  Where having discharg’d his Duty, he descends the same Way, lighter by the Load he carry’d up.  This the poor stupid Drudge fails not to do, Day and Night, at the stated Hours.

Two Gentlemen, who had join’d me on the Road, alike led by Curiosity, seem’d alike delighted, that the End of it was so well answer’d.  I could easily discover in their Countenances a Satisfaction, which, if it did not give a Sanction to my own, much confirm’d it, while they seem’d to allow with me that these reverend Solitaries were truly happy Men; I then thought them such; and a thousand times since, reflecting within my self, have wish’d, bating their Errors, and lesser Superstitions, my self as happily station’d:  For what can there be wanting to a happy Life, where all things necessary are provided without Care?  Where the Days, without Anxiety or Troubles, may be gratefully passed away, with an innocent Variety of diverting and pleasing Objects, and where their Sleep sand Slumbers are never interrupted with any thing more offensive, than murmuring Springs, natural Cascades, or the various Songs of the pretty feather’d Quiristers.