He spoke all this with such an Openness of Heart, that in return of so much Confidence, I confess’d to him, that I had heard of the Affair, for that it had made no little Noise all over the Country; that it highly behoved him to take great Care of himself, since as the Relations on both Sides were considerable, he must consequently be in great Danger; That in Cases of that Nature, no People in the World carry Things to greater Extremities, than the Spaniards. He return’d me Thanks for my good Advice, which I understood, in a few Days after, he, with the Assistance of his Friends, had taken Care to put in Practice; for he was convey’d away secretly, and afterwards had the Honour to be made a Peer of Ireland.
My Passport being at last sign’d by the Count de las Torres, I prepared for a Journey, I had long and ardently wish’d for, and set out from Madrid, in the Beginning of September, 1712, in Order to return to my native Country.
Accordingly I set forward upon my Journey, but having heard, both before and since my being in Spain, very famous Things spoken of the Escurial; though it was a League out of my Road, I resolved to make it a Visit. And I must confess, when I came there, I was so far from condemning my Curiosity, that I chose to congratulate my good Fortune, that had, at half a Day’s Expence, feasted my Eyes with Extraordinaries, which would have justify’d a Twelve-months’ Journey on purpose.
The Structure is intirely magnificent, beyond any Thing I ever saw, or any Thing my Imagination could frame. It is composed of eleven several Quadrangles, with noble Cloisters round every one of them. The Front to the West is adorn’d with three stately Gates; every one of a different Model, yet every one the Model of nicest Architecture. The Middlemost of the three leads into a fine Chapel of the Hieronomites, as they call them; in which are entertain’d one hundred and fifty Monks. At every of the four Corners of this august Fabrick, there is a Turret of excellent Workmanship, which yields to the Whole an extraordinary Air of Grandure. The King’s Palace is on the North, nearest that Mountain, whence the Stone it is built of was hew’n; and all the South Part is set off with many Galleries, both beautiful and sumptuous.
This prodigious Pile, which, as I have said, exceeds all that I ever saw; and which would ask, of it self, a Volume to particularize, was built by Philip the Second. He lay’d the first Stone, yet liv’d to see it finished; and lies buryed in the Panthaeon, a Part of it, set apart for the Burial-place of succeeding Princes, as well as himself. It was dedicated to Saint Laurence, in the very Foundation; and therefore built in the Shape of a Gridiron, the Instrument of that Martyr’s Execution; and in Memory of a great Victory obtained on that Saint’s Day. The Stone of which it is built, contrary to the common Course, grows whiter by Age; and the Quarry, whence it was dug, lies near enough, if it had Sense or Ambition, to grow enamour’d of its own wonderful Production. Some there are, who stick not to assign this Convenience, as the main Cause of its Situation; and for my Part, I must agree, that I have seen many other Parts of Spain, where that glorious Building would have shone with yet far greater Splendour.


