There are two Play-houses in Madrid, at both which they act every Day; but their Actors, and their Music, are almost too indifferent to be mentioned.  The Theatre at the Bueno Retiro is much the best; but as much inferior to ours at London, as those at Madrid are to that.  I was at one Play, when both King and Queen were present.  There was a splendid Audience, and a great Concourse of Ladies; but the latter, as is the Custom there, having Lattices before them, the Appearance lost most of its Lustre.  One very remarkable Thing happen’d, while I was there; the Ave-Bell rung in the Middle of an Act, when down on their Knees fell every Body, even the Players on the Stage, in the Middle of their Harangue.  They remained for some Time at their Devotion; then up they rose, and returned to the Business they were before engag’d in, beginning where they left off.

The Ladies of Quality make their Visits in grand State and Decorum.  The Lady Visitant is carry’d in a Chair by four Men; the two first, in all Weathers, always bare.  Two others walk as a Guard, one on each Side; another carrying a large Lanthorn for fear of being benighted; then follows a Coach drawn by six Mules, with her Women, and after that another with her Gentlemen; several Servants walking after, more or less, according to the Quality of the Person.  They never suffer their Servants to over load a Coach, as is frequently seen with us, neither do Coachmen or Chairmen go or drive as if they carried Midwives in lieu of Ladies.  On the contrary, they affect a Motion so slow and so stately, that you would rather imagine the Ladies were every one of them near their Time, and very apprehensive of a Miscarriage.

I remember not to have seen here any Horses in any Coach, but in the King’s, or an Embassador’s; which can only proceed from Custom; for certainly finer Horses are not to be found in the World.

At the Time of my being here, Cardinal Giudici was at Madrid; he was a tall, proper, comely Man, and one that made the best Appearance. Alberoni was there at the same Time, who, upon the Death of the Duke of Vendome, had the good Fortune to find the Princess Ursini his Patroness.  An Instance of whose Ingratitude will plead Pardon for this little Digression.  That Princess first brought Alberoni into Favour at Court.  They were both of Italy, and that might be one Reason of that Lady’s espousing his Interest:  tho’ some there are, that assign it to the Recommendation of the Duke of Vendome; with whom Alberoni had the Honour to be very intimate, as the other was always distinguish’d by that Princess.  Be which it will, certain it is, she was Alberoni’s first, and sole Patroness; which gave many People afterwards a very smart Occasion of reflecting upon him, both as to his Integrity and Gratitude.  For, when Alberoni, upon the Death of King Philip’s