time especially, mostly dry.  This gave occasion to that piece of Railery of a Foreign Embassador, That the King would have don wisely to have bought a River, before he built the Bridge.  Nevertheless, that little Stream of a River which they boast of, they improve as much as possible; since down the Sides, as far as you can see, there are Coops, or little Places hooped in, for People to wash their Linen (for they very rarely wash in their own Houses) nor is it really an unpleasing Sight, to view the regular Rows of them at that cleanly Operation.

The King has here two Palaces; one within the Town, the other near adjoining.  That in the Town is built of Stone, the other which is called Bueno Retiro, is all of Brick.  From the Town to this last, in Summer time, there is a large covering of Canvas, propt up with tall Poles; under which People walk to avoid the scorching heats of the Sun.

As I was passing by the Chapel of the Carmelites, I saw several blind Men, some led, some groping the Way with their Sticks, going into the Chapel.  I had the curiosity to know the Reason; I no sooner enter’d the Door, but was surprized to see such a number of those unfortunate People, all kneeling before the Altar, some kissing the Ground, others holding up their Heads, crying out Misericordia.  I was informed ’twas Saint Lucy’s Day, the Patroness of the Blind; therefore all who were able, came upon that Day to pay their Devotion:  So I left them, and directed my Course towards the King’s Palace.

When I came to the outward Court, I met with a Spanish Gentleman of my Acquaintance, and we went into the Piazza’s; whilst we were talking there, I saw several Gentlemen passing by having Badges on their Breasts; some white, some red, and others green:  My Friend informed me that there were five Orders of Knighthood in Spain.  That of the Golden Fleece was only given to great Princes, but the other four to private Gentlemen, viz.  That of Saint Jago, Alacantara, Saint Salvador de Montreal, and Monteza.

He likewise told me, that there were above ninety Places of Grandees, but never filled up; who have the Privilege of being cover’d in the Presence of the King, and are distinguished into three Ranks.  The first is of those who cover themselves before they speak to the King.  The second are those who put on their Hats after they have begun to speak.  The third are those who only put on their Hats, having spoke to him.  The Ladies of the Grandees have also great Respect show’d them.  The Queen rises up when they enter the Chamber, and offers them Cushions.

No married Man except the King lies in the Palace, for all the Women who live there are Widows, or Maids of Honour to the Queen.  I saw the Prince of Asturia’s Dinner carried through the Court up to him, being guarded by four Gentlemen of the Guards, one before, another behind, and one on each Side, with their Carbines shoulder’d; the Queen’s came next, and the King’s the last, guarded as before, for they always dine separately.  I observed that the Gentlemen of the Guards, though not on Duty, yet they are obliged to wear their Carbine Belts.