Soft; cow or goat; round dessert variety; representative of a cheese family as big as the human family of most Italians.

Lees see Appenzeller, Festive, No.  II.

LeGueyin
Lorraine, France

Half-dried; small; salted; peppered and sharp.  The salt and pepper make it unusual, though not as peppery as Italian Pepato.

Leicester
England

Hard; shallow; flat millstone of Cheddar-like cheese weighing forty pounds.  Dark orange and mild to red and strong, according to age.  With Wiltshire and Warwickshire it belongs to the Derbyshire type.

An ancient saying is:  “Leicester cheese and water cress were just made for each other.”

Leidsche Kaas see Leyden.

Leonessa

A kind of Pecorino.

Leroy
U.S.A.

Notable because it’s a natural cheese in a mob of modern processed.

Lerroux
France

Goat; in season from February to September and not eaten in fall or winter months.

Lescin
Caucasus

Curious because the sheep’s milk that makes it is milked directly into a sack of skin.  It is made in the usual way, rennet added, curd broken up, whey drained off, curd put into forms and pressed lightly.  But after that it is wrapped in leaves and ropes of grass.  After curing two weeks in the leaves, they are discarded, the cheese salted and wrapped up in leaves again for another ripening period.

The use of a skin sack again points the association of cheese and wine in a region where wine is still drunk from skin bags with nozzles, as in many wild and mountainous parts.

Les Petits Bressans
Bresse, France

Small goat cheeses named from food-famous Bresse, of the plump pullets, and often stimulated with brandy before being wrapped in fresh vine leaves, like Les Petits Banons.

Les Petits Fromages see Petits Fromages and Thiviers.

Le Vacherin

Name given to two entirely different varieties: 
 I. Vacherin a la Main
II.  Vacherin Fondu. (See Vacherin.)

Levroux
Berry, France

A goat cheese in season from May to December.

Leyden, Komijne Kaas, Caraway Cheese
Holland

Semihard, tangy with caraway.  Similar Delft.  There are two kinds of Leyden that might be called Farm Fat and Factory Thin, for those made on the farms contain 30 to 35% fat, against 20% in the factory product.

Liederkranz see Chapter 4.

Limburger see Chapter 3.

Lincoln
England

Cream cheese that keeps two to three weeks.  This is in England, where there is much less refrigeration than in the U.S.A., and that’s a big break for most natural cheeses.

Lindenhof
Belgium

Semisoft; aromatic; sharp.

Lipta, Liptauer, Liptoiu
Hungary