“The prayer chanted in these evening meetings varies according to the season of the year; that which they recite to the rosary is always the same, and is only composed of six syllables, om-mani-badme-khum.  This formula, called briefly the mani, is not only heard from every mouth, but is everywhere written in the streets, in the interior of the houses, on every flag and streamer floating over the buildings, printed in the Landzee, Tartar, and Thibetan characters.  The Lamas assert that the doctrine contained in these words is immense, and that the whole life of man is not sufficient to measure its depth and extent.”]

The lowest of the monuments is five and the tallest eight feet in height.  Near them are several flat stones with grooves in their surface, which lead to the supposition of their employment for sacrificial purposes.  Mr. Chase told me at Nicolayevsk that he thought one of the monuments was used as an altar when the monastery flourished.  There are no historical data regarding the ruins beyond those found on the stones.

Many of the Russians and Chinese believe the site was selected by Genghis Khan, and the monastery commemorated one of his triumphs.  The natives look upon the spot with veneration, and frequently go there to practice their mysterious rites.

Before leaving Nicolayevsk I asked the captain of the Irigodah how fast his boat could steam.  “Oh!” said he, “ten or twelve versts an hour.”  Accustomed to our habit of exaggerating the powers of a steamer, I expected no more than eight or nine versts.  I was surprised to find we really made twelve to fifteen versts an hour.  Ten thousand miles from St. Louis and New Orleans I at last found what I sought for several years—­a steamboat captain who understated the speed of his boat!  Justice to the man requires the explanation that he did not own her.

[Illustration:  ON THE AMOOR.]

My second day on the Amoor was much like the first in the general features of the scenery.  Hills and mountains on either hand; meadows bounding one bank or the other at frequent intervals; islands dotted here and there with pleasing irregularity, or stretching for many miles along the valley; forests of different trees, and each with its own particular hue; a canopy of hazy sky meeting ranges of misty peaks in the distance; these formed the scene.  Some one asks if all the tongues in the world can tell how the birds sing and the lilacs smell.  Equally difficult is it to describe with pen upon paper the beauties of that Amoor scenery.  Each bend of the stream gave us a new picture.  It was the unrolling of a magnificent panorama such as no man has yet painted.  And what can I say?  There was mountain, meadow, forest, island, field, cliff, and valley; there were the red leaves of the autumn maple, the yellow of the birch, the deep green of pine and hemlock, the verdure of the grass, the wide river winding to reach the sea, and we slowly stemming its current.  How powerless are words to describe a scene like this!