Every day when calm we made soundings, which were carefully recorded for the use of Russian chart makers.  Once we found that the temperature of the bottom at a depth of two hundred fathoms, was at the freezing point of water.  The doctor proposed that a bottle of champagne should be cooled in the marine refrigerator.  The bottle was attached to the lead and thrown overboard.

“I send champagne to Neptune,” said the doctor.  “He drink him and he be happy.”

When the lead returned to the surface it came alone.  Neptune drank the champagne and retained the bottle as a souvenir.

One day the sailors caught a gull and painted it red.  When the bird was released he greatly alarmed his companions, and as long as we could see them, they shunned his society.  At least eighty miles from land we had a dozen sparrows around us at once.  A small hawk seized one of these birds and seated himself on a spar for the purpose of breakfasting.  A fowling piece brought him to the deck, where we examined and pronounced him of the genus Falco, species NISUS, or in plain English, a sparrow hawk.  During the day we saw three varieties of small birds, one of them resembling the American robin.  The sailors caught two in their hands, and released them without injury.

Approaching Ohotsk a fog bank shut out the land for an hour or two, and when it lifted we discovered the harbor.  A small sand-bar intervened between the ocean and the town, but did not intercept the view.  As at Petropavlovsk, the church was the most prominent object and formed an excellent landmark.  With my glass I surveyed the line of coast where the surf was breaking, but was long unable to discover an entering place.  The Ohota river is the only harbor, and entirely inaccessible to a ship like the Variag.

Descending the ship’s side after we anchored, I jumped when the boat was falling and went down five or six feet before alighting.  Both hands were blistered as the gang-way ropes passed through them.  Keeping the beacons carefully in line, we rolled over the bar on the top of a high wave, and then followed the river channel to the landing.

Many years ago Ohotsk was the most important Russian port on the waters leading to the Pacific.  Supplies for Kamchatka and Russian America were brought overland from Yakutsk and shipped to Petropavlovsk, Sitka, and other points under Russian control.  Many ships for the Pacific Ocean and Ohotsk sea were built there.  I was shown the spot where Bering’s vessel was constructed, with its cordage and extra sails of deerskin, and its caulking of moss.  Billings’ expedition in a ship called Russia’s Glory, was organized here for an exploration of the Arctic ocean.  At one time the Government had foundries and workshops at Ohotsk.  The shallowness of water on the bar was a great disadvantage, as ships drawing more than twelve feet were unable to enter.  Twenty years ago the government abandoned Ohotsk for Ayan, and when the Amoor was opened it gave up the latter place.  The population, formerly exceeding two thousand, is now less than two hundred.