their contemplation.  The most interesting of these treasures are those around which cling historic associations.  The crowns of the kingdoms of Kazan and Astrachan point to the overthrow of Tartar power in Europe, while the throne of Poland symbolizes the westward course of the Muscovite star of empire.  There are flags borne or captured in Russia’s victories, from the storming of Kazan and the defence of Albazin down to the suppression of Polish revolt.  Mute and dumb witnesses of the misfortunes of the Grand Armee are the long rows of cannon that lie near the Kremlin palace.  Three hundred and sixty-five French guns tell of Napoleon’s disastrous march to Moscow.

The holiest part of holy Moscow is within the Kremlin.  In the church of the Assumption, the czars of Russia, from John the Terrible down to the present day, have been crowned.  In the Michael church, until the accession of Peter the Great, the Rurik and Romanoff dynasties were buried; while another church witnessed their baptism, and marriage.  What a wonderful amount of gold and jewels are visible in the churches and chapels of the Kremlin!  The floor of one is of jasper and agate; pearl and amethyst and onyx adorn the inner walls of another.  One has vast pillars of porphyry, and the domes and turrets of all are liberally spread or starred with gold.  The pictures of the infant Saviour and his mother are hung with necklaces of jewels, each of them almost a fortune.  One might easily think that the wealth of Ormuz or of Ind had been gathered to adorn the shrines of the most oriental Christian faith.

I visted the Imperial Theatre, which the Muscovites pronounce the finest in the world.  To my mind it is only equaled by La Scala at Milan, or San Carlo at Naples.  Outside it reminded me of our ci-devant Academy of Music.  Inside it was gorgeous, well arranged, and spacious.

[Illustration:  VIEW ON THE NEVSKI PROSPECT—­ST. PETERSBURGH.]

The Kitai Gorod, or Chinese town of Moscow, is close by the Kremlin and outside its walls.  The only feature worthy the name of this part of the city is the number of Tartar inhabitants and the immense bazaar, or Gustinni Dvor, where the principal trade of Moscow has been centered for nearly three hundred years.  The quantity of goods in the bazaar is something enormous.  A Russian said to me:  “If half the houses in Moscow were stripped of furniture, ornaments, and all things save the walls and roofs; if their inhabitants were plundered of all clothing and personal goods except their bank accounts,—­the gastinni dvor could supply every deficiency within two hours.  You may enter the bazaar wearing nothing but your shirt, and can depart in an hour dressed and decorated in any manner you choose, and riding in your carriage with driver and footman in livery.”