I stepped from the sleigh and waded through a deep snowdrift to the granite obelisk erected by the first Alexander to mark the line between the two continents.  It Is a plain shaft—–­ Bunker Hill monument in miniature—­bearing the word “EUROPE” on one side, and “ASIA” on the other.  Two fir trees planted by His August Majesty are on opposite sides of the monument.

[Illustration:  EUROPE AND ASIA.]

A snow-drift in the middle of a frosty night is not the place for sentimental musings.  I rested a foot in each of two continents at the same moment, but could not discover any difference in their manners, customs, or climate.

Regaining the sleigh, I nestled into my furs, and soon fell asleep.  I was in Europe.  I had accomplished the hope and dream of my boyhood.  But in my most romantic moments, I had not expected to stand for the first time in Europe on the ridge of the Ural Mountains.

[Illustration:  A RUSSIAN BEGGAR.]

After passing the boundary, we dashed away over the undulating road, and made a steady though, imperceptible descent into the valley of the Kama.  As I commenced my first day in Europe, the sunbeams wavered and glistened on the frost-crystals that covered the trees, and the flood of light that poured full into my opening eyes was painfully dazzling.  Where we halted for breakfast, the station was neat and commodious, and its rooms well furnished.  We fared sumptuously on cutlets and eggs, with excellent bread.  Just as we were seated in the sleigh, a beggar made a touching appeal, as explained by the doctor, in behalf of the prophet Elias.  The prophet’s financial agent was of so unprepossessing appearance that we declined investing.  Beggars often ask alms in the interest of particular saints, and this one had attached himself to Elias.

We met many sledges laden with goods en route to the fair which takes place every February at Irbit.  This fair is of great importance to Siberia, and attracts merchants from all the region west of Tomsk.  From forty to fifty million roubles worth of goods are exchanged there during the four weeks devoted to traffic.  The commodities from Siberia are chiefly furs and tea, those from Europe comprise a great many articles.  Irbit is on the Asiatic side of the Ural mountains, about two hundred versts northeast of Ekaterineburg.  It is a place of little consequence except during the time of the fair.

After entering Europe, we relied upon the stations for our meals, carrying no provisions with us except tea and sugar.  We knew the peasants would be well supplied with edibles during Christmas holidays, and were quite safe in depending upon them.  A traveler in Russia must consult the calendar before starting on a journey, if he would ascertain what provision he may, or may not, find among the people.