I could learn of only six of my countrymen who had been at Irkutsk before me.  Of these all but two passed through the city with little delay, and were seen by very few persons.  I happened to reach Siberia when our iron-clad fleet was at Cronstadt, and its officers were being feasted at St. Petersburg and elsewhere.  The Siberians regretted that Mr. Fox and his companions could not visit them, and experience their hospitality.  So they determined to expend their enthusiasm on the first American that appeared, and rather unexpectedly I became the recipient of the will of the Siberians toward the United States.  Two days after my arrival I was visited by Mr. Hamenof, one of the wealthiest merchants of Irkutsk.  As he spoke only Russian, he was accompanied by my late fellow-traveler who came to interpret between us, and open the conversation with—­

“Mr. Hamenof presents his compliments, and wishes you to dine with him day after to-morrow.”

I accepted the invitation, and the merchant departed.  Maack informed me that the dinner would be a ceremonious one, attended by the Governor General and leading officials.

About forty persons were present, and seated according to rank.  The tables were set on three sides of a square apartment, the post of honor being in the central position facing the middle of the room.  The dinner was served in the French manner, and but for the language and uniforms around me, and a few articles in the bill of fare, I could have thought myself in a private parlor of the Trois Freres or the Cafe Anglais.

Madame Ditmar, the wife of the governor of the Trans-Baikal, was the only lady present.  When the champagne appeared, Mr. Hamenof proposed “The United States of America,” and prefaced his toast with a little speech to his Russian guests.  I proposed the health of the Emperor, and then the toasts became irregular and applied to the Governor General, the master of the house, the ladies of Siberia, the Russo-American Telegraph, and various other persons, objects, and enterprises.

From the dinner table we adjourned to the parlors where tea and coffee were brought, and most of the guests were very soon busy at the card tables.  On reaching my room late at night, I found a Russian document awaiting me, and with effort and a dictionary, I translated it into an invitation to an official dinner with General Korsackoff.  Five minutes before the appointed hour I accompanied a friend to the Governor General’s house.  As we entered, servants in military garb took our shoobas, and we were ushered into a large parlor.  General Korsackoff and many of the invited guests were assembled in the parlor, and within two minutes the entire party had gathered.  As the clock struck five the doors were thrown open, and the general led the way to the dining hall.