Wood comes in soudnas from the shores of Lake Baikal and is very cheap.  These vessels descend the river by the force of the current, but in going against it are towed by horses.  The principal market place is surrounded with shops where a varied and miscellaneous lot of merchandise is sold.  I found ready-made clothing, crockery, boots, whisky, hats, furniture, flour, tobacco, and so on through a long list of saleable and unsaleable articles.  How such a mass could find customers was a puzzle.  Nearly all the shops are small and plain, and there are many stalls or stands which require but a small capital to manage.  A great deal of haggling takes place in transactions at these little establishments, and I occasionally witnessed some amusing scenes.

The best time to view the market is on Sunday morning, when the largest crowd is gathered.  My first visit was made one Sunday when the thermometer stood at -15 deg.  Fahrenheit.  The market houses and the open square were full of people, and the square abounded in horses and sleds from the country.  A great deal of traffic was conducted on these sleds or upon the solid snow-packed earth.  The crowd comprised men, women, and children of all ages and all conditions in life.  Peasants from the country and laborers from the city, officers, tradesmen, heads of families, and families without heads, busy men, and idlers, were mingled as at a popular gathering in City Hall Park.  Everybody was in warm garments, the lower classes wearing coats and pelisses of sheepskin, while the others were in furs more or less expensive.  Occasionally a drunken man was visible, but there were no indications of a tendency to fight.  The intoxicated American, eight times out of ten, endeavors to quarrel with somebody, but our Muscovite neighbor is of a different temperament.  When drunk he falls to caressing and gives kisses in place of blows.

[Illustration:  A COLD ATTACHMENT.]

The most novel sight that day in the market at Irkutsk was the embrace of two drunken peasants.  They kissed each other so tenderly and so long that the intense cold congealed their breath and froze their beards together.  I left them as they were endeavoring to arrange a separation.

A few beggars circulated in the crowd and gathered here and there a copeck.

The frost whitened the beards of the men and reddened the cheeks of the women.  Where hands were bared to the breeze they were of a corned-beefy hue, and there were many persons stamping on the ground or swinging their arms to keep up a circulation.  The little horses, standing, were white with frost, but none of them covered with blankets.  The Siberian horses are not blanketed in winter, but I was told they did not suffer from cold.  Their coats are thick and warm and frequently appear more like fur than hair.