Just as the deck hands were rolling our carriages on shore my companion returned, and announced our horses ready.  We sought a little office near the head of the wharf where the chief of the ‘tamojna’ (custom house) held his court.  This official was known to Mr. Maack, and on our declaring that we had no dutiable effects we were passed without search.

As before remarked all the country east of Lake Baikal is open to free trade.  This result has been secured by the efforts of the present governor general of Eastern Siberia.  Under his liberal and enlightened policy he has done much to break down the old restrictions and develop the resources of a country over which he holds almost autocratic power.  It was about three in the morning when we started over the frozen earth.  Two miles from the landing we reached the custom house barrier where a pole painted with the government colors stretched across the road.  Presenting our papers from the chief officer we were not detained.  On the steamer when we were nearing harbor our conversation turned upon the custom house.  It was positively asserted that the officials were open to pecuniary compliments, much, I presume like those in other lands.  The gentleman from the Amoor had considerable baggage, and prepared a five rouble note to facilitate his business.  Evidently he gave too little or did not bribe the right man, as I left him vainly imploring to be let alone in the centre of a pile of open baggage, like Marius in the ruins of Carthage.

The road follows the right bank of the Angara from the point where it leaves the lake.  The current here is very strong, and the river rushes and breaks like the rapids of the St. Lawrence.  For several miles from its source it never freezes even in the coldest winters.  During the season of ice this open space is the resort of many waterfowl, and is generally enveloped in a cloud of mist.  At the head of the river rises a mass of rock known as Shaman Kamen (spirit’s rock).  It is held in great veneration by the natives, and is believed to be the abode of a spirit who constantly overlooks the lake.  When shamanism prevailed in this region many human sacrifices were made at the sacred rock.  The most popular method was by tying the hands of the victim and tossing him into the ‘hell of waters’ below.

Many varieties of fish abound in the lake, and ascend its tributary rivers.  The fishery forms quite a business for the inhabitants of the region, who find a good market at Irkutsk.  The principal fish taken are two or three varieties of sturgeon, the herring, pike, carp, the askina, and a white fish called tymain.  There is a remarkable fish consisting of a mass of fat that burns like a candle and melts away in the heat of the sun or a fire.  It is found dead on the shores of the lake after violent storms.  A live one has never been seen.

[Illustration:  A SPECIMEN.]

The distance to Irkutsk from our landing was about forty miles, and we hoped to arrive in time for breakfast.  A snow storm began about dayliglit, so that I did not see much of the wooded valley of the river.  We met a train of sixty or seventy carts, each carrying a cask of vodki.  This liquid misery was on its way to the Trans-Baikal, and the soudna which brought a load of tea would carry vodki as a return cargo.