At the second station the smotretal sought our horses among the village peasants, as he had none of his own.  He explained that a high official had passed and taken the horses usually kept for the courier.  This did not satisfy Borasdine, who entered complaint in the regulation book, stating the circumstances of the affair.  At every station there is a book sealed to a small table and open to public inspection.  An aggrieved traveler is at liberty to record a statement of his trouble.  At regular intervals an officer investigates the affairs of every station.  Complaints are examined, and offences treated according to their character.  This wholesome regulation keeps the station masters in proper restraint.

Day had fairly opened through a dense fog when our delay ended.  While we descended a long hill one of our hinder wheels parted company and took a tangent to the road side.  We were in full gallop at the time, but did not keep it up long.  A pole from a neighboring fence, held by a Pole from Warsaw, lifted the axle so that the wheel could be replaced.  I assisted by leaving the carriage and standing at the roadside till all was ready.  We had some doubts about the vehicle holding together much longer, but it behaved very well.  The tarantass is a marvel of endurance.  To listen to the creaking of its joints, and observe its air of infirmity, lead to the belief that it will go to pieces within a few hours.  It rattles and groans and threatens prompt analysis, but some how it continues cohesive and preserves its identity hundreds of miles over rough roads.

We were merciless to the horses as they were not ours and we were in a hurry.  When the driver allowed them to lag, Borasdine ejaculated ‘POSHOL!’ with a great deal of emphasis and much effect.  This word is like ‘faster’ in English, and is learned very early in a traveler’s career in Russia.  I acquired it before reaching the first station on my ride, and could use it very skillfully.  In the same connection are the words ‘droghi’ (’touch up,’) ‘skorey’ (’hurry,’) and ‘stupie’ (’go ahead.’) All these commands have the accent upon the last syllable, and are very easy to the vocal organs.  I learned them all and often used them, but to this day I do not know the Russian word for ‘slower.’  I never had occasion to employ it while in the empire, except once when thrown down an icy slope with a heap of broken granite at its base, and at another time when a couple of pretty girls were standing by the roadside and, as I presumed, wanted to look at me.

From Stratensk to Nerchinsk, a distance of sixty miles, our road led among hills, undulating ground, meadows, and strips of steppe, or prairie, sometimes close to the river, and again several miles away.  The country is evidently well adapted to agriculture, the condition of the farms and villages indicating prosperity.  I saw much grain in stacks or gathered in small barns.  As it was Sunday no work was in progress, and there were but few teams in motion anywhere.  The roads were such that no one would travel for pleasure, and the first day of the week is not used for business journeys.