So the very first thing we must know about jelly making is whether or not a fruit contains pectin.  There will be no tears shed over jelly that will not “jell” if all young housewives will learn the simple test for pectin; to find out whether a juice contains pectin or not is a very easy matter.

Take one tablespoonful of grain alcohol—­90 to 95 per cent.—­and add to it one tablespoonful of cooked juice that has been cooled.  The effect of the alcohol is to bring together the pectin in a jelly-like mass.  If a large quantity of pectin is present it will appear in one mass or clot which may be gathered up on a spoon.  You will notice I said cooked juice.  It is peculiar that this pectin frequently is not found in the juices of raw fruits, though it is very plentiful in the cooked juices.  Therefore the test must be made with cooked juice.

There is little pectin in the juice of raw apples, raw quince, raw grapes, and yet the cooked juices are full of pectin.

This test not only indicates the amount of pectin present, but it also gives some idea of the proper proportions of sugar to juice.  If three-fourths or more of the juice forms a gelatinous mass or clot this indicates that you should use three-fourths as much sugar as juice.  If the pectin is slightly gelatinous or is less than three-fourths of the whole volume of juice, use less sugar.  If the pectin is less than one-half add some form of pectin to make the jelly, or can the juice for use as a beverage, for flavoring ice cream or some form of cooking.

By employing this test, sugar can often be reduced, and thus the jelly texture will be fine, less rubbery and the flavor will be better.

After the fruit has been selected and prepared as usual by washing, stemming, and so forth, it is ready to be heated in an acid-proof kettle.  With juicy fruits use just enough water to prevent burning—­about one cup of water to every four or five quarts of fruit.  The juicy fruits are currants, raspberries, and so forth.  With less juicy fruits, as apples or quinces, use enough water to cover, or follow the rule, half as much water as fruit.  Use the cores, skins and seeds; these improve the flavor and color of the jelly.

Berries can be mashed.  Heat the fruit slowly in a covered kettle, stirring once in a while to obtain an even cooking.  When the simmering point is reached, crush the fruit with a well-soaked wooden masher.  When the fruit is tender or has a transparent appearance, it is ready to strain.

The jelly bag must be of closely woven material; one with a large mouth is advisable.  If cheesecloth is used double it and tie opposite corners together.  When a very clear jelly is desired use a flannel or felt bag for straining the juice.

What drips into the dish or pan is called Extraction One.  When this Extraction One is fairly drained out, which takes about thirty minutes, do not squeeze the pulp for a second grade jelly as so many housewives do; instead, make another juice extraction.  To do this, empty the contents or pulp in the bag into the preserving kettle, cover with water, and stir until thoroughly mixed; then cover, bring slowly to a boil as before and drain again.  The juice that drips out is called Extraction Two.