who arrived at California to expel them, and to take
charge of the country, expected to find a rich and
powerful fraternity, with immense treasures hoarded
in their missions, and an army of Indians ready to
defend them. On the contrary, he beheld a few
venerable silver-haired priests coming humbly forward
to meet him, followed by a throng of weeping, but
submissive natives. The heart of the governor,
it is said, was so touched by this unexpected sight,
that he shed tears; but he had to execute his orders.
The Jesuits were accompanied to the place of their
embarkation by their simple and affectionate parishioners,
who took leave of them with tears and sobs. Many
of the latter abandoned their hereditary abodes, and
wandered off to join their southern brethren, so that
but a remnant remained in the peninsula. The Franciscans
immediately succeeded the Jesuits, and subsequently
the Dominicans; but the latter managed their affairs
ill. But two of the missionary establishments
are at present occupied by priests; the rest are all
in ruins, excepting one, which remains a monument
of the former power and prosperity of the order.
This is a noble edifice, once the seat of the chief
of the resident Jesuits. It is situated in a beautiful
valley, about half way between the Gulf of California
and the broad ocean, the peninsula being here about
sixty miles wide. The edifice is of hewn stone,
one story high, two hundred and ten feet in front,
and about fifty-five feet deep. The walls are
six feet thick, and sixteen feet high, with a vaulted
roof of stone, about two feet and a half in thickness.
It is now abandoned and desolate; the beautiful valley
is without an inhabitant—not a human being
resides within thirty miles of the place!
In approaching this deserted mission-house from the
south, the traveller passes over the mountain of San
Juan, supposed to be the highest peak in the Californias.
From this lofty eminence, a vast and magnificent prospect
unfolds itself; the great Gulf of California, with
the dark blue sea beyond, studded with islands; and
in another direction, the immense lava plain of San
Gabriel. The splendor of the climate gives an
Italian effect to the immense prospect. The sky
is of a deep blue color, and the sunsets are often
magnificent beyond description. Such is a slight
and imperfect sketch of this remarkable peninsula.
Upper California extends from latitude 31 10’
to 42 on the Pacific, and inland, to the great chain
of snow-capped mountains which divide it from the
sand plains of the interior. There are about twenty-one
missions in this province, most of which were established
about fifty years since, and are generally under the
care of the Franciscans. These exert a protecting
sway over about thirty-five thousand Indian converts,
who reside on the lands around the mission houses.
Each of these houses has fifteen miles square of land
allotted to it, subdivided into small lots, proportioned
to the number of Indian converts attached to the mission.